But when all idle people shall have visited all the bubbling fountains
of Germany, where are they to go next? There are some very nice springs
in Iceland not yet patronised; but although the springs there are hot,
the Springs, vernally speaking, are cold. I can inform travellers where
they will find out something new, and I advise them to proceed to the
boiling springs at Saint Michael's, one of the Western isles, and which
are better worth seeing than all the springs that Germany can produce.
I will act as _guide de voyage_.
When you land at Saint Michael's, you will find yourself in one of the
dirtiest towns in the world, and will put up at one of the worst hotels;
however, you will have to pay just as dear as if lodged at the
Clarendon, and fed at the _Rocher de Cancale_. The town contains many
inhabitants, but more pigs. German pigs are not to be compared to them.
You must then hire donkeys and ascend to the mountains, and after a hot
ride, you will arrive at a small valley in the centre of the mountains,
which was once the crater of a volcano, but is now used by nature as a
kettle, in which she keeps hot water perpetually boiling for those who
may require it. There you will behold the waters bubbling and boiling
in all directions, throwing up huge white columns of smoke, brought out
in strong relief by the darker sides of the mountains which rear their
heads around you. The ground you tread upon trembles as you walk; you
feel that it is only a thin crust, and that in a moment you may sink
into the vast cauldron below, and have a hot bath without paying for it.
Continue along the valley, and you will find lakes of still,
deadly-cold water, with hot springs at their verge, throwing the smoke
over their surface, while they pour in their boiling water as if they
would fain raise the temperature; depositing sulphur in cakes and
crystals in their course. And in another spot there is a dark,
unfathomable hole, called the Devil's Mouth: you approach it, and you
hear low moanings and rumblings, as if nature had the stomach-ache; and
then you will have a sudden explosion, and a noise like thunder, and a
shower of mud will be thrown out to a distance of several yards. Wait
again; you will again hear the moans and rumblings, and in about three
minutes the explosion and the discharge will again take place; and thus
has this eternal diarrhoea continued ever since the memory or tradition
of man.
Yet, upon this apparently insecure and dangerous spot have been erected
houses and baths, and it is resorted to by the fashionables of Saint
Michael's, who wish, by its properties, to get rid of certain cutaneous
disorders: for the whole air is loaded with sulphurous vapour, as the
eternal pot keeps boiling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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