On Board the "Rocket"Adams, Robert C. (Robert Chamblet)
History
On Board the "Rocket"
Adams, Robert C. (Robert Chamblet)
Seafaring life
Anchoring in Batavia harbor, native boatmen row us ashore, giving
monotonous grunts as they ply their oars; and pulling up a long canal,
we land at the "boom," or Custom House. A carriage is secured, a sort
of barouche, having four wheels, and one seat with projecting hood.
A driver sits on the box, wearing a loose bright-colored frock, his
head covered with an enormous gilt hat, in shape like an inverted
wash-bowl. Two ponies are attached to the carriage; the driver cracks
his whip and beats them to enforce a start, but in vain. This carriage,
in the Malay tongue, is called a "crétur," but an Irishman would
certainly apply that term to the horses, for of all created animals,
donkeys not excepted, these East Indian horses are the most erratic
and unaccountable in their movements. In this case an appeal to the
bystanders brings a crowd to push the vehicle ahead, until the ponies,
through fear of being run over, decide to get out of the way, and
start off upon a gallop, which is maintained till the destination is
reached; unless they should happen to stop suddenly, stand on their
heads and kick their heels at the driver's wash-bowl hat; or else,
turning at right angles, dash off the road into a hedge. I was once
driving in Penang, in the Straits of Malacca, with a gentleman, in an
American buggy drawn by a Sumatra pony; a horse passing at a gallop
infuriated the animal, and he rushed at his utmost speed along a
smooth, wide road. At its sides were ravines fifteen or twenty feet
deep, at the bottom of which ran streams of water. No obstruction was
in sight save a solitary buffalo cart on the left hand side of the
road; and because that was the only point where he could not have the
freedom of the whole road, there that pony deemed the path of duty to
lie. As he approached the cart he bolted off to that side of the road,
tottered a moment on the edge of the bank, and over it we went. Flying
through the air, I struck my head on the opposite side of the ravine,
and rolled down into the stream under the pony, who looked as though
he wished he hadn't done it. Some natives helped me up into the road,
and when I appeared on board ship the next morning with my bruised and
battered face and soiled clothing, the sailors cast suspicious glances,
and I learned afterwards, were quite elated at having detected their
moralizing captain in the indulgence of a night-long spree with such
results. This injury to my reputation may account for my prejudice
against East India ponies; but now that I have given them a bad name
I have had my revenge. It must be admitted that they are indispensable
to comfort, with all their ills, for the fierce tropical sun forbids
noon-day walking, and some covered conveyance is an essential of life
in the East; so, in China, each person has his sedan chair carried
by two coolies; in the Straits' Settlements, his one-horse gharry,
and in the Dutch places his crétur. Some security is given against
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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