The mist was all round us; it made a complete silence, and it drifted
in the oddest way, making wisps of vapour quite close to our faces. Nor
had we any guide except the steepness of the hill. For it is a rule
when you are caught in a storm or mist upon the hills, if you are going
up, to go the steepest way, and though in such a fog this often took us
over a knoll which we had to descend again, yet on the whole it proved
a very good rule. It was perhaps the middle of the afternoon, we had
been climbing some five hours, we had ascended some six thousand or
seven thousand feet, when to our vast astonishment we stumbled upon a
sort of road.
It must here be explained why we were astonished. The way we had come
led nowhere; there were no houses and no men. The Andorrans whom we
were about to visit have no communication northward with the outer
world except a thin wire leading over the hills, by which those who
wish to telephone to them can do so; and of all places in Europe,
Andorra is the place out of which men least desire to get and to
which men least desire to go. It is like that place beyond Death of
which people say that it gives complete satisfaction and from which
certainly no one makes any effort to escape, and yet to which no one is
very anxious to go. When, therefore, we came to this road, beginning
suddenly half way up a bare mountain and appearing unexplained through
the mist, we were astonished.
It was embanked and entrenched and levelled as would be any great
French military road near the frontier fortresses. There was a little
runnel running underneath the road, conveying a mountain stream; it was
arched with great care, and the arch was made of good hewn stone well
smoothed. But when we came right on to this road we found something
more astonishing still: we found that it was but the simulacrum or
ghost of a road. It was not metalled; it was but the plan or trace or
idea of a road. No horses had ever trod its soft earth, no wheels had
ever made a rut in it. It had not been used at all. Grass covered it.
The explanation of this astonishing sight we did not receive until
we had spoken in their own tongue the next day to the imperturbable
Andorrans.
It was as though a school of engineers had been turned on here for
fun, to practise the designing of a road in a place where land was
valueless, upon the very summit of the world.
We two men, however, reasoned thus (and reasoned rightly as it turned
out):
“The tall and silent Andorrans in a fit of energy must have begun this
road, though later in another fit they abandoned it. Therefore it will
lead towards their country.”
And as we were very tired of walking up a steep which had now lasted
for so many hours, we determined to follow the large zigzags of this
unknown and magic half-road, and so we did.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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