There is a pass called the Bon Agua, and also Bon Aigo, which leads
from the heights of the Catalans to those other heights of Aragon,
or as some would say of Bearn, for the pass is from the south of the
mountains to the north; on the northern side one knows why it is called
Bon Agua, because one sees many thousands of feet below one the little
bracelet, the little chain, of the young Garonne.
Do not mistake me, there are two sources of the Garonne. That which is
most famous does the most famous thing; for it rises on the far side
of the mountains and it plunges into a pond, quite a little pond. Then
it cascades underground, through dark passages of which no one knows
anything, and comes out beyond the main chain of the hills to join its
other quieter sister from the Bon Agua. This startling source, I say,
is the most famous, because it does the most startling things, though
not more wonderful than what a Yorkshire river does, for there is a
Yorkshire river in the West Riding which runs into the pond called
Mallam Tarn and reappears afterwards beyond a rocky ridge; but this
Garonne of which I speak goes right under high and silent mountains
where there are no men, and this is a feat performed, I think, by no
other river, not even by the Rhone, which also is lost for the time
underground (though few people know it), nor by the River Mole, which
plays at being lost and never quite is, and certainly has not the
courage to attempt the tunnelling of any hill, though it is proud to be
called the “snouzling Mole,” which, by the way, it was first called in
the year 1903--but I digress, and I must return to the Bon Agua.
Well, then, there I say under the Bon Agua runs the quieter of the two
streams which unite in the Val D’Aran to form the Garonne, and there
it was that a companion of mine seeing that little stream looked at it
with profound sadness, and said--the things which shall be the text of
what I have to say here. For he said:
“Poor little Garonne! Innocent and lovely little Garonne! I have never
seen a stream so small, nor so pure, nor so young, nor so far from men.
But you are on your way to things you do not know. For first of all
you will join that boasting sister of yours which has come from under
the hills, and can talk of nothing else; and then you will go past the
King’s Bridge being no longer among kind and silent Spaniards, and you
will have entered the territory of the Republic which is fierce and
evil, and you will grow greater and wider and not more happy until you
will come to the perfectly detestable town of Toulouse.... Thence after
you will have no pleasure, but only a certain grandeur to be passing
through the Gascon fields, and all your desire will be for the sea in
which at last you shall merge and be lost. And so strong will be your
desire for that dissolution that you will be willing to mix your name
with another name, to marry the Dordogne, and then you will die and you
will be glad of it.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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