On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)Burnaby, Fred
History
On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)
Burnaby, Fred
Turkey -- Description and travel
The performers swung their heads from side to side, and kept time with
the quickening air; the strains went faster and faster. The guests were
inspired with the musicians' enthusiasm. All the heads began to swing,
we Europeans involuntarily marking the time with our feet on the floor.
The musicians panted with their exertions. Suddenly the melody left off
abruptly, and one of the performers commenced a doleful dirge. This did
not last long, and when he was in the most pathetic part, another crash
from the orchestra interrupted him in the middle of a verse.
"Turkish music is exactly like a Turkish dinner," observed one of the
guests; "it is a series of surprises; the leader of the orchestra goes
from _andante_ to a racing pace without any _crescendo_ whatsoever;
the cook in the same manner—he first gives us a dish as sweet as honey,
and then astonishes our stomachs with a sauce as acid as vinegar. Now
we are eating fish, another instant blanc-mange. A vegetable is next
placed before us, and our stomachs have scarcely recovered from their
astonishment, when a sweet soup is served up with some savoury pastry."
The servants, who were much more numerous than the guests, vied with
each other in serving the different dishes. Twenty attendant domestics
were arranged in Indian file. So soon as the host made a sign to
the leading domestic, each kind of food was replaced by another, and
number-two servant was prepared with fresh viands, while number one,
who had hurried to the kitchen, returned with another dish.
The table was a raised one, chairs were placed round it. This was done
in honour of the European visitors. We all ate with our fingers, each
man helping himself according to his rank or social position. It was
not etiquette for a Cadi to seize a piece of meat before the Bey put
his fingers in the dish, a captain had to be careful not to offend the
susceptibilities of a colonel.
To eat blanc-mange _à la Turque_ requires some practice; however, the
Consul and the Italian doctor had been for some time in the East, and
used their fingers as readily as a knife and fork.
At last our dinner was over. Fruit, mincemeat, dishes of vegetables,
sweets and raisins, salads and creams, concluding with a huge bowl of
boiled rice, had been disposed of, the whole having been washed down by
tumblers of red country wine very like Burgundy.
"Praise be to God!" said our host, rising; his example was followed by
the rest of the guests.
A servant poured water over the hands of the visitors, beginning with
each man according to his rank. We adjourned into another room. Here
coffee, _tchibouks_, and _nargilehs_ were handed round to the company.
A servant now approached, and said that Osman was waiting outside, and
wished to speak to me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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