On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)Burnaby, Fred
History
On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)
Burnaby, Fred
Turkey -- Description and travel
This accident delayed us considerably on the road. Some time after
sunset, on looking at my watch, I found that we had only placed an
eight hours' march between ourselves and Angora. We were on a large
plain, which was surrounded by hills; our path wound round the slopes
of the adjacent height, presently the village of Asra Yuzgat appeared
in sight. It is built on the side of a hill. We were soon riding on the
tops of the houses, and had to be very careful lest our horses should
suddenly come upon an open chimney. Some of the roofs had fallen in.
The moon shining on the white rafters gave a ghastly appearance to the
scene.
The people in this part of Anatolia have a very economical way of
building their habitations. The man who is old enough to take unto
himself a helpmate, and who is about to leave his father's roof, marks
a piece of ground, generally of an oblong shape and on the side of
a hill. He next digs out the earth to the depth of about seven feet.
Then, hewing down some trees, he cuts six posts, each about ten feet
high, and drives them three feet into the ground, three posts being on
one side of the oblong and three on the other. Cross-beams are fastened
to the tops of these uprights, and branches of trees plastered down
with clay cover all. A few planks, with a hole made in them to serve
as a doorway, enclose the outer side of the building, and a broad
heavy plank closes the entrance, hinges being replaced by strips of
cowhide. A wooden railing divides the room into two parts; one of them
is tenanted by the sheep, oxen, camels, and cows of the proprietor,
the other by himself and family. No partition-wall separates the
cattle from their master; and the smell which arises at night from
the confined air and from the ammonia in the building is excessively
disagreeable to a European. In cold weather a hole in the roof, which
serves as a ventilator, is stopped by a large stone. Fuel, often made
from cow's dung, first dried and then mixed with chopped straw, is
thrown on the fire. The inmates, sometimes consisting of twelve or more
people, lie huddled together on the floor. This last in the poorer
houses is covered by rugs made of camel's hair, and in the wealthier
establishments by thick Persian carpets.
The barking of the dogs, which swarmed around us, speedily awoke the
inhabitants, and a middle-aged Turk, clad in a thick brown mantle,
approaching me, said that he was the Caimacan or governor, and that he
hoped I would stay at his house that night.
It appeared that my friend the Bey at Angora had written to him about
my journey, and had said that I should reach Asra Yuzgat at sunset.
The Caimacan knew nothing of our accident on the road: as we had not
arrived by one hour after nightfall, he had gone to bed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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