On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)Burnaby, Fred
History
On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)
Burnaby, Fred
Turkey -- Description and travel
On leaving Daili the track was firm and good for the first three hours;
it then became very precipitous, and led down steep declivities, and
over a succession of boulders. At last we came to a large circular
plain; it was surrounded by hills; on one side of this vast natural
basin, and on a slope, lay Yuzgat.
As we were nearing the walls a cavalcade of horsemen appeared in
sight. One of them advancing saluted us by touching his fez, and then
addressed me in excellent French. He was a Pole, Vankovitch by name,
and was employed as chief engineer in the district. He had received a
telegram from the Italian doctor, M. Gasparini, of Angora, to say that
I was on the road, and had ridden out with some Armenian gentlemen to
welcome us to the town.
An Armenian now asked me to take up my quarters in his house. I had
been lodged beneath a Turkish roof at Angora, and was curious to see
the difference between the Christian and Mussulman mode of living. I
gladly accepted the offer.
Many more horsemen, Turks and Armenians, joined us ere we entered
the city. I now learnt that my kind friend, the Bey at Angora, had
telegraphed to some of his acquaintances, asking them to do what they
could to make my stay at Yuzgat pleasant.
The news of the approach of an Englishman had already been spread
through the town. The inhabitants had all turned out to have a look at
the stranger.
"An Englishman in Yuzgat is indeed a surprise for the inhabitants,"
said a young Turk who was riding by my side. "I do not believe that one
of your nation has been here for the last twenty years. We Turks are
not ungrateful," he continued, with a smile. "We have not forgotten our
old friends of the Crimea, and what you did for us then."
"Please God you will do as much now!" said another horseman. "Anyhow
your arrival has created an immense excitement; there was not so great
a crowd to see the Pasha of Angora, when he paid us a visit."
"Sir," observed Radford, who, surprised at the tremendous ovation I was
receiving from the crowd, had gradually sidled up to my horse, "this
reminds me of our riding after Don Carlos in Spain. Only in Spain, all
the people came to look at Don Carlos, and here they have come to look
at us. Just, sir, for all the world as if we were a Lord Mayor with his
men in harmour riding in state by the Horse Guards. There have been a
lot of dirty Turks kissing Osman already, so pleased they seem to see
him; and two or three men were slobbering over my boots as we rode up
the hill!"
We entered a courtyard: dismounting, I ascended some steps which led
to my host's house. The room placed at my disposal was furnished in
a similar fashion to the one which I had inhabited in Angora. Several
servants hastened to pull off my riding-boots, and the proprietor said
that some Armenians were waiting outside, they wished to speak to me.
"Would I see them?"
"By all means," I replied; "show them in."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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