Chemical apparatus; Electroplating; Glass blowing and working; Glass coatings; Glass grinding and polishing; Lampwork; Mirrors
In ninety-nine cases out of every hundred where difficulties occur
their origin is to be traced to dirt. There seems to be some
inexplicable kink in the human mind which renders it callous to
repeated proofs of the necessity for cleaning surfaces which it is
intended to solder. The slightest trace of albuminous or gelatinous
matter or shellac will prevent solder adhering to most metals and the
same remark applies in a measure to the presence of oxides, although
these may be removed by chloride of zinc or prevented from forming by
resin or tallow. A touch with an ordinarily dirty hand--I refer to a
solderer's hand--will often soil work sufficiently to make the
adherence of solder difficult.
The fluxes most generally employed are tallow for lead, resin or
Venice turpentine for copper, chloride of zinc for anything except
lead, which never requires it. The latter flux has the property (also
possessed by borax at a red heat) of dissolving any traces of oxide
which may be formed, as well as acting as a protecting layer to the
metal.
We may now turn to the consideration of a simple case of soldering,
say the joining of two copper wires. The wires are first cleaned
either by dipping in a bath of sulphuric and nitric acids--a thing no
laboratory should be without--or by any suitable mechanical means.
The cleaned wires are then twisted together--there is a regulation
way of doing this, but it presents no advantage in laboratory
practice--and the joint is sprinkled over with resin, or painted
with a solution of resin in alcohol.
The iron, being heated and floated with solder, is held against the
joint, the latter being supported on a brick, and the solder is
allowed to "sweat" into the joint. Enough solder must be present to
penetrate right through the joint. Nothing is gained by rubbing
violently with the iron. If the copper is clean it will tin, and if
it is dirty it won't, and there the matter ends.
Beginners generally use too small or too cold a bit, and produce a
ragged, dirty joint in consequence. If the saving of time be an
object, the joint may be twisted together on ordinarily dirty oxidised
wires and heated to, say, 200 deg. C. It is then painted with chloride of
zinc and soldered with the bit.
There is a difference of opinion as to the relative merits of chloride
of zinc and of resin as a flux in soldering copper. Thus the standing
German practice is, or was, to employ the former flux in every case
for soldering electric light wires, while in England the custom used
to be to specify that soldering should be done by resin, and this
custom may still prevail; it lingers in Australia at all events.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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