Chemical apparatus; Electroplating; Glass blowing and working; Glass coatings; Glass grinding and polishing; Lampwork; Mirrors
A very common cause of failure lies in the contamination of the glass
with grease from the operator's fingers. Before setting out to clean
the glass the student will do well to wash his hands with soap and
water, then with dilute ammonia and finally with distilled water.
In the case of an electrometer jar which has become conducting but is
not perceptibly dirty, rubbing with a little oleate of soda and a silk
ribbon, followed, of course, by copious washing, does very well. If
there is any tin-foil on the jar, great care must be taken not to
allow the glass surface to become contaminated by the shellac varnish
or gum used to stick the tin-foil in position.
Finally, the glass should be dried by radiant heat and raised to a
temperature of 100 deg. C. at least, and kept at it for at least half an
hour. Before drying it is of course advisable to allow the water to
drain away as far as possible, and if the water is only the ordinary
distilled water of the laboratory, the glass is preferably wiped with
a clean bit of filter paper; any hairs which may be left upon the
glass will brush off easily when the glass is dry.
In order to obtain satisfactory results the glass must be placed in
dry air before it has appreciably cooled. This is easily done in the
case of electrometer jars, and so long as the air remains perfectly
dry through the action of sulphuric acid or phosphorus pentoxide, the
jar will insulate. The slightest whiff of ordinarily damp air will,
however, enormously reduce the insulating power of the glass, so that
unvarnished glass surfaces must be kept for apparatus which is
practically air-tight.
For outside or imperfectly protected uses the glass does better when
varnished. It is a fact, however, that varnished glass is rarely if
ever so good as unvarnished glass at its best. Too much care cannot
be taken over the preparation of the varnish; French polish, or
carelessly made shellac varnish, is likely to do more harm than good.
The best orange shellac must be dissolved in good cold alcohol by
shaking the materials together in a bottle. The alcohol is made
sufficiently pure by starting with rectified spirit and digesting it
in a tin flask over quick-lime for several days, a reversed condenser
being attached. A large excess of lime must be employed, and this
leads to a considerable loss of alcohol, a misfortune which must be
put up with.
After, say, thirty hours' digestion, the alcohol may be distilled off
and employed to act on the shellac. In making varnish, time and
trouble are saved by making a good deal at one operation--a
Winchester full is a reasonable quantity. The bottle may be filled
three-quarters full of the shellac flakes and then filled up with
alcohol; this gives a solution of a convenient strength.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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