They believe in an evil spirit called Nyakasana, for whom they build a little grass temple in the court yard of their houses. They always offer to him the first-fruits of their potato, Indian corn and millet crops, and when they kill a goat for meat or entrap an antelope they take to their little temple a portion of the flesh, before tasting it themselves. The spirits of the dead have constantly to be propitiated by gifts of food and live stock. These are carefully kept apart, and when any member of the family is taken ill, the offerings to the dead are brought in, so that the sick person shall look on them and recover. During our stay at Mboga, the first man from the Balega tribe was baptised, and since then several teachers have gone to them from Bunyoro and found a great willingness and desire among the people for instruction. Thus gradually the Light is dawning on “Darkest Africa.” “Arise shine, for the light is come and the glory of the Lord is risen upon thee. For behold the darkness shall cover the earth and gross darkness the people but the glory of the Lord shall arise upon thee.... And the Gentiles shall come to Thy light, and kings to the brightness of Thy rising.” Isaiah. CHAPTER XVIII A Climb to the Snows It is impossible to live any length of time in close proximity to Ruwenzori without being overcome with a desire to reach the land of glittering ice that resembles an enchanted city with its pinnacles, turrets and domes pointing upward to the sun, which with all its equatorial strength has ineffectually endeavoured to displace the age-long snows and ice. The highest point has, in recent years, been estimated to reach an altitude of 20,000 to 22,000 feet. The snows are not often clearly visible, for in the dry season the hot heavy mist that envelops the whole country completely hides the range from view, while in the wet season clouds frequently veil the highest peaks. From the glaciers rush numerous streams that flow down into the Albert Edward Lake, and out again by the River Semliki to the Albert Lake and the Nile. In ancient times an Egyptian caravan road extended right down into these interior districts along the route of this great natural watercourse. Doubtless the Egyptians, and probably Solomon, drew their supplies of ivory from the vast herds of elephants that still ramble about round Ruwenzori with tusks some weighing 150 to 200lbs. each. [Illustration: STIFF CLIMBING: A CLIMB TO THE SNOWS.]