Leaving Butanuka and keeping a southerly course we found ourselves shut in by the big mountains that rise up so erratically from their gently undulating surroundings. For the first time I indulged in the questionable luxury of being hammocked. We had been experiencing some days of heavy rains which had made the paths very muddy, and the long grasses through which we had to push our way was very wet, so that I determined to take advantage of the voluntary offers from some of the young Christian men, headed by the teacher, to act as carriers. The men gaily hoisted the hammock pole on their heads, and trying to appear unconscious of their 10½ stone burden, rushed off at a motor-like speed. They evidently felt a little uneasy of the possible consequences, for the front man kept calling out to me “Do not fear, my child,” but suddenly I was precipitated backward, the heavy pole on the top of me, and my black “father” was sprawling unceremoniously in the mud. After that they were convinced of the necessity of going slowly, especially as our imperceptible path lay somewhere between tall thistles that gave us uncomfortable pricks and scratches as we pushed our way through. When we reached our destination for that day the hammock bearers yelled and literally jumped with joy, regardless of my feelings, calling out “Juli Abakuru ba Buingereza,” “We are great people of England,” as they put me to the ground with “Well done, very well done, mistress”; but I felt in an advanced stage of mal de mer. That day we had a typical African travelling experience. After descending a long, almost perpendicular hill we landed where our path lay through a broad, rushing river, the force of which was so great that the men could scarcely stand. The recent rains had swelled the river, which, coming from the lofty snow peaks, formed into a perfect cataract. The first man who very gingerly went to test the strength of the water was carried off his feet and just saved himself by clinging on to the bank at a bend. After long deliberation Apolo, our leader, got together six or eight very powerful men, who volunteered to post themselves where the current was strongest and help the others along. The first load that was taken across was our sack of kitchen utensils, which floated cheerfully down stream for some distance. Then the men suggested taking me across in the hammock. I generously hinted to my companion that she should go over first, but she would not see it. So, summing together all my courage, I got into the hammock and they plunged along, dragging their burden through the madly rushing waters. After about three hours had elapsed everything was safely landed on the other shore, baggage and all. The only tragedy we had to relate was the sad fate of a chicken that, at sight of the tempestuous waters, broke from its captivity and was carried away by the relentless river to supply food to the hungry little fishes.