Time has wrought a phenomenal change; the country from being threatened by strong foes on the north, and harassed by rebellious tribes within itself, has now settled down into a quiet peace, and two English girls were able to stroll over the same soil in perfect safety, with nothing to fear, save perhaps that they themselves should fail to rise to the privileges given them of living and working in such a land where lie footprints in the sands of time. CHAPTER XV Tramp III. Through the Four Kingdoms of the Protectorate The Uganda Protectorate is built up of four independent self-governing kingdoms, besides some outlying districts to the South East, which are under the control of Chiefs. The kingdoms are—Uganda, Toro, Bunyoro, and Ankole. Toro is ruled over by a once rebellious branch of the Bunyoro tribe, that many years ago drove out the original inhabitants and established an independent kingdom. With this exception each state is absolutely distinct from the other in the general physique and customs of the people. All of the four reigning sovereigns have been baptised into the Protestant Faith, and excepting in the case of Daudi Chwa, King of Uganda, who is at present but a small lad, they are leading exemplary Christian lives and helping forward Missionary work in every way. A circular tour of 600 or 700 miles through these districts could be accomplished just within one month, but this would involve heavy travelling and give but a feeble chance of appreciating the rapid transitions that are met with in country, animal life, and people. It took us nearly nine weeks to go the round, as our object was to visit all the mission stations along the route. In Toro we deviated slightly from the direct path in order that church sites might be measured and pegged out. The English Government some months before had granted to the native church a certain amount of land which could be divided up and marked out wherever required. In the kingdom of Toro about 130 plots were chosen where, in the near future it is to be hoped, mission centres will be planted, manned by trained native teachers. Already between 90 and 100 have been taken up and occupied, which means that the country is slowly being net-worked with Christian testimony. Measuring and marking out land in these parts is a rather complicated business. Once only did I attempt to offer the help of my services, and never again. It means geometrically describing circles and right angles through the rankest weeds and tiger grass, stepping it out through swamp and marsh; planting young saplings at every point as boundary marks only to find all these carefully calculated demarcations removed after perhaps a few days, to suit the convenience of one of the land holders who was in need of firewood, or wished to extend his boundaries. _Quod non erat faciendum._