On the Connexion of the Physical SciencesSomerville, Mary
Science
On the Connexion of the Physical Sciences
Somerville, Mary
Physical sciences; Science
The height to which the tides rise is much greater in narrow channels
than in the open sea, on account of the obstructions they meet with. The
sea is so pent up in the British Channel that the tides sometimes rise
as much as fifty feet at St. Malo, on the coast of France; whereas on
the shores of some of the South Sea islands, near the centre of the
Pacific, they do not exceed one or two feet. The winds have great
influence on the height of the tides, according as they conspire with or
oppose them. But the actual effect of the wind in exciting the waves of
the ocean extends very little below the surface. Even in the most
violent storms the water is probably calm at the depth of ninety or a
hundred fathoms. The tidal wave of the ocean does not reach the
Mediterranean nor the Baltic, partly from their position and partly from
the narrowness of the Straits of Gibraltar and of the Categat, but it is
very perceptible in the Red Sea and in Hudson’s Bay. The ebb and flow of
the sea are perceptible in rivers to a very great distance from their
estuaries. In the Narrows of Pauxis, in the river of the Amazons, more
than five hundred miles from the sea, the tides are evident. It requires
so many days for the tide to ascend this mighty stream, that the
returning tides meet a succession of those which are coming up; so that
every possible variety occurs at some part or other of its shores, both
as to magnitude and time. It requires a very wide expanse of water to
accumulate the impulse of the sun and moon, so as to render their
influence sensible; on that account the tides in the Mediterranean and
Black Sea are scarcely perceptible.
These perpetual commotions in the waters are occasioned by forces that
bear a very small proportion to terrestrial gravitation: the sun’s
action in raising the ocean is only the 1/38448000 of gravitation at the
earth’s surface, and the action of the moon is little more than twice as
much; these forces being in the ratio of 1 to 2.35333, when the sun and
moon are at their mean distances from the earth. From this ratio the
mass of the moon is found to be only the 1/75 part of that of the earth.
Had the action of the sun on the ocean been exactly equal to that of the
moon, there would have been no neap tides, and the spring tides would
have been of twice the height which the action of either the sun or moon
would have produced separately—a phenomenon depending upon the
interference of the waves or undulations.
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