One Hundred Years in Yosemite: The Story of a Great Park and Its FriendsRussell, Carl Parcher
History
One Hundred Years in Yosemite: The Story of a Great Park and Its Friends
Russell, Carl Parcher
Yosemite National Park (Calif.) -- History; Yosemite Valley (Calif.) -- History
It was inevitable that in the exploration for trails and passes, certain
peaks should be climbed. The first recorded ascents of Yosemite’s peaks
are attributed to members of the various survey parties. Perhaps the
first was the ascent of Mount Hoffmann in 1863 by Whitney, Brewer, and
Hoffmann. King climbed it in 1864 and with Gardiner climbed Mount
Conness that same year, following with an ascent of Mount Clark, not
without adventure, in 1866. Muir climbed Mounts Dana and Hoffmann, and
far more difficult Cathedral Peak, three years later. Probably the first
Yosemite ascent for the challenge of it by a casual tourist was that of
Mount Lyell, highest peak in the park, in 1871. According to Hutchings:
Members of the State Geological Survey Corps having considered it
impossible to reach the summit of this lofty peak, the writer was
astonished to learn from Mr. A. T. Tileston [John Boies Tileston] of
Boston, after his return to the Valley from a jaunt of health and
pleasure in the High Sierra, that he had personally proven it to be
possible by making the ascent. Incredible as it seemed at the time,
three of us found Mr. Tileston’s card upon it some ten days afterward.
Mr. Tileston, writing to his wife from Clark and Moore’s after the climb
on Mount Lyell, explained that he ascended nearly to the snow line on
August 28, 1871, and next morning “climbed the mountain and reached the
top of the highest pinnacle (‘inaccessible, according to the State
Geological Survey’) before eight.” (Tileston, 1922, pp. 89-90.)
John Muir reached the summit of Mount Lyell later that year. Muir
undoubtedly climbed in part as a response to the challenge of summits
but could hardly be considered a casual tourist.
Four years later another summit, of which Whitney had said, it “never
has been, and never will be trodden by human foot,” was ascended by a
man climbing merely for the fun of it. In 1875, George G. Anderson,
continuing where John Conway, a valley resident, had been stopped by
difficulty and danger, tackled the climb of Half Dome with ideas of his
own. According to Muir:
Anderson began with Conway’s old rope, which had been left in place,
and resolutely drilled his way to the top, inserting eye-bolts five or
six feet apart, and making his rope fast to each in succession,
resting his feet on the last bolt while he drilled a hole for the next
above. Occasionally some irregularity in the curve, or slight
foothold, would enable him to climb a few feet without the rope, which
he would pass and begin drilling again, and thus the whole work was
accomplished in less than a week.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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