One Hundred Years in Yosemite: The Story of a Great Park and Its FriendsRussell, Carl Parcher
History
One Hundred Years in Yosemite: The Story of a Great Park and Its Friends
Russell, Carl Parcher
Yosemite National Park (Calif.) -- History; Yosemite Valley (Calif.) -- History
“These pioneers of the byways were limited, not by lack of enterprise,
but by lack of modern equipment and the technique for its use; both of
these required assets came to Yosemite in 1933. A year before that a
Rock-Climbing Section was formed in the Sierra Club, and its members
brought Alpine technique, which they had practiced and improved in local
metropolitan rock parks, to Yosemite. Skillfully using rope and piton
technique, and developing their balance climbing to a point where they
are able to ascend Half Dome without recourse to any artificial aids,
much less cableways, members of this and similar sections, men and women
alike, have pioneered many new routes on the valley walls, some
extremely difficult. The present total of routes to the rim, exclusive
of the trails, is forty-five. Spires and pinnacles not accessible by
other means were especially challenging. The higher and lower Cathedral
Spires were climbed in 1934 by the party of Jules M. Eichorn, Richard M.
Leonard, and Bestor Robinson. The routes for this and other climbs are
described in the Yosemite Valley section of a comprehensive ‘Climber’s
Guide to the High Sierra,’ being published serially by the Sierra Club.
[Illustration: _By D. R. Brower_
Ski Mountaineering Party near Mount Starr King]
[Illustration: _By D. R. Brower_
Climbing on the Three Brothers]
[Illustration: _By R. M. Leonard_
Descending Lower Cathedral Spire]
“Construed at present as the ultimate in technical rock-climbing was the
ascent, September 2, 1946, of the Lost Arrow by the party of Jack
Arnold, Robin Hansen, Fritz Lippmann, and Anton Nelson. The party used
more than a thousand feet of rope and many pounds of mountaineer’s
hardware. They first managed to throw a light line over the summit. Two
men remained in support at the rim. The other two went down a rope to
the notch separating the pinnacle from the valley wall, and with expert
technique were able to climb 100 feet of the rock’s outer face, nearly
3,000 sheer feet above the valley floor, until they could reach the
lower end of the line. With this they pulled rope over the summit.
Another 100 feet of climbing on that rope, with help from the men on the
rim, brought them to the top on the evening of the third day. On the
crowded, rounded summit they drilled small holes for two expansion
bolts, anchored ropes to them, and in the moonlight worked across the
gap to the rim on the airy, swinging ropes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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