Here and there the towers of a castle or the chimneys of a villa arise
from banks of foliage, and, perched along the bluff above the seashore,
like the chalets of Switzerland, are comfortable cottages and mansions
in which rich people from Dublin dwell. Clinging to the side of the
bluff and protected by a stone wall is a splendid roadway encircling the
entire bay, quite as beautiful, although on a smaller scale, as the
Corniche road from Nice to Monte Carlo. The deep blue of the water, the
vivid green of the foliage, which seems more pronounced in Ireland than
anywhere I have ever been, the great white banks of hawthorn, the yellow
of the buttercups and the gorse give a brilliancy to the landscape that
does not appear anywhere on the Riviera or anywhere else I know.
The winding road with this wonderful panorama always before you leads
finally through a glen into a park named after the late Queen
Victoria,--a wild stretch of rocky woodland and pasture, which in
ancient days was one of the principal meeting places of the Druids, and
it was well chosen. The land was purchased by subscription to
commemorate the queen's jubilee in 1897, and has been thrown open to the
public ever since. From the number of people who are present every
Sunday afternoon one would think the money was well invested.
A winding path leads to the summit, which is cleared of trees, and in
the center a shaft of stone rises about sixty feet, which, the
inscription tells us in quaint and laconic manner, was erected by John
Mapas, Esquire, June, 1742, in order to give employment to his less
fortunate neighbors, "last year being hard with the poor." A hundred
yards distant is a round, conical tower marked, "Mont Mapas." Nobody
seems to know who erected it or what it is for. And there is a pyramid
of seven tiers of stone thirty feet square at the base and eighteen feet
high, with a flat stone at the top.
There is a monument to mark the spot where the Duke of Dorset was killed
by being thrown from his horse in 1815, and what is more interesting,
four Druid judgment seats, formed of rough granite blocks about twelve
feet long, two feet high, and three and a half feet wide at the top.
They are situated in pairs some distance from each other, and tradition
says that the Druid chiefs in prehistoric times sat in judgment upon
them to settle disputes between their people and to receive petitions
from the members of their tribes. Of course, we know that Ireland was
held by the Druids once, and it is very certain that they could not have
found a more appropriate or a lovelier place than this for their
assemblies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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