One of the loveliest railway or automobile rides in Ireland is from
Dublin northward to the ancient town of Drogheda (pronounced Drawdah).
The railroad runs parallel with the highway along the shore of St.
George's Channel. Both touch several popular seaside resorts, fishing
settlements, and busy manufacturing towns, which alternate with
beautiful pastures filled with sleek cattle and unshorn sheep, and here
and there ivy-clad towers and little groups of chimney pots rise above
the foliage. The pastures and meadows, when we saw them, blazing with
yellow buttercups, looked like the Field of the Cloth of Gold. They are
divided into small plots by hedges of hawthorn twelve and fifteen feet
high, which in the early summer are as white as banks of snow, and so
fragrant that the perfume floated into the car windows.
Between the meadows and the pastures along the coast are plots of
cultivated ground, gardens of potatoes, cabbages, and other vegetables
and glorious groves. It isn't a bit like the Ireland one expects to see
after reading newspaper accounts of the terrible conditions that the
politicians complain of. It is not a country of downtrodden peasants and
a wretched tenantry crushed under the heels of oppressive landlords.
Right is not upon the scaffold in that section of Ireland, nor is wrong
upon the throne. On the contrary, every evidence of prosperity and
contentment and happiness abounds. The neatly whitewashed,
straw-thatched cottages are surrounded with gay gardens filled with
old-fashioned flowers, such as you see in Massachusetts and New
Hampshire. Large stables and storehouses are attached to almost every
cottage, which indicates that the farmer has something to put in them.
The traveler cannot see the mansions of the rich, because they are
hidden in glorious parks and protected by high walls. Occasionally in
the distance, however, he can catch glimpses of the towers of ancient
castles, each having a romance or a tragedy, and sometimes several of
both, contained in their history.
At Malehide forty or fifty golf players alighted from the train, with
kits of clubs over their shoulders, for there are two links near that
village--one for an exclusive club of rich Dubliners, and the other for
any one who is able to pay half a crown for the privilege of chasing a
little gutta-percha ball over the grass. Malehide is a lovely place,
situated on the seashore at the mouth of a little stream called Meadow
Water, with hotels of all grades and prices, fashionable and
unfashionable, and some of them are open for health seekers the year
around.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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