He was so deaf that he couldn't understand us, and he mumbled his words
so that we couldn't understand him, except now and then a word, but he
was so anxious to be of service, so eager to earn a tip, that he would
repeat everything he said again and again, until we were able to
comprehend it. With his crooked stick he pointed the way across the
fields and we followed him. We wouldn't have got much information,
however, had not Mr. Wilkinson, the first citizen of Tara, come to our
rescue. He saw us as we passed his house, which stands a little way down
the road, and, as he explained, "Having nothing better to do, and always
enjoying an opportunity to meet Americans," he fortunately came over and
joined our party and gave us intelligent and interesting explanations.
He is a rugged old gentleman, is Mr. Wilkinson. Although more than
eighty years of age, he "can do as big a day's work, six days in the
week, and enjoy the Lord's day for rest as much as he did when he was
only forty." His great-grandfathers as far back as he knows, like
himself, were born in the cottage in which he lives, and "I've seen
things come and go for many a day," he said. When Mr. Wilkinson had
passed beyond hearing with the ladies, the old guide seized me by the
arm, drew me anxiously to shelter and then in a whisper repeated several
times until I was able to comprehend:
"'E's the richest man in Tara and in all the country round about. 'E's
worth three thousand pun if he's worth a penny, and he got it from his
father before him. He's a good man, too, and I dunno what we'd do here
without Mr. Wilkinson."
They led us to the top of the hill, where we could stand beside the spot
once occupied by the coronation stone and admire all Ireland, spread out
like a cyclorama around us. It is one of the most beautiful landscapes
in the universe. There are no mountains, except in the far distance;
there are no rocks or other ungainly objects in view, but as serene and
peaceful and fertile a tract of territory as can be found upon God's
footstool. Ireland is the greenest country that ever was. The turf and
the foliage have a brighter color and a richer luster than those of any
other country. That, however, is not news. The fact was discovered
centuries ago and has been disclosed by every son of old Erin who ever
wrote poetry or prose. But nowhere is there such convincing proof that
the Emerald Isle was appropriately named as is offered from the top of
the Hill of Tara. You cannot transfer the testimony of the fields and
the forests to paper, either with a pen or a brush, and certainly not
with a typewriter. There are no words in the English language sufficient
to convey to another mind what the eyes can see of this glorious
landscape, and it is useless to multiply adjectives.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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