The Seven Churches are all small and stand in a group around a
cathedral, within sight of each other, except for the foliage. They are
roofless and partially ruined, but of late years the board of public
works has taken possession of them, repaired them, and is keeping them
in order. Several monasteries have been maintained there from time to
time, and a thousand years ago Glendalough was one of the most famous
seats of learning in the world. Scholars and students went there from
all parts of Europe to study.
The cathedral, which is the center of interest, is probably the smallest
sanctuary of that dignity in existence. The nave is only 48 feet long by
30 feet wide, and the chancel is 25 by 22 feet, but the masonry is
massive. The Church of the Trinity has a chancel only 13 feet 6 inches
long by 9 feet wide and a nave 29 by 17 feet. It contains the tomb of
Mochuarog, son of Brachan, King of Britain, who was a disciple of St.
Kevin and administered the last rites to him when he died. The Church of
St. Savior is 45 by 19 feet; the Church of Our Lady has a nave 32 by 20
and a chancel 21 by 19; St. Chalaran's has a nave 18 by 15 feet and a
chancel 8 feet 8 inches by 8 feet 4 inches; Reefert Church has a nave 29
by 18 feet and a chancel 14 by 9 feet. This was the burial place of the
O'Tooles and contains several tombs dating as far back as 1010. What is
called "Kevin's Kitchen" is an oblong oratory, 23 by 15 feet in size.
There is a tower of imposing dimensions, 110 feet high and 52 feet in
circumference, standing in the center of an ancient cemetery and
surrounded by tombstones. There are several fine Celtic crosses of great
age and sanctity before which pilgrims are constantly kneeling, and many
other objects of great interest.
What was once a beautiful interlaced cross has been half carried away by
vandals in chips as "mementos" from the grave of a "rale oulde Irish
king." One of the tombs has an inscription in Celtic, reading, "The body
of King Mac Thuill, in Jesus Christ, 1010"; another is inscribed, "Pray
for Carbre ma Cahail," but most of the inscriptions are obscure.
A few miles down to the south of Glendalough, on the other side of the
divide, is the village of Ennisworthy, where the great Grattan lived
between the sessions of the Irish parliament, and where many scenes are
associated with his memory. It was near Ennisworthy or Vinegar Hall that
one of the fiercest battles was fought between the British troops and
the Irish rebels on the 21st of June, 1798. The rebels threw up hurried
earthworks around a ruined windmill and defended them with pikes,
scythes, and other agricultural implements, for those were all the arms
they had. The British assaulted the hill and massacred or captured the
entire force. Five hundred are said to have been killed in the
engagement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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