The Protestant Cathedral is a fine, modern building with a lofty central
tower and four smaller towers of the same design surrounding it. It was
finished only a few years ago and cost half a million dollars, most of
the money being derived from legacies. It stands on the site of an
ancient church built by St. Fin-Barre. The grounds are large and
beautifully shaded, with here and there a tomb of some distinguished
man. The service and the singing are quite impressive, and we heard the
best choir we have found in Ireland.
But the church where everybody goes, which every tourist must visit, is
St. Anne's, on the other side of the river, on Shandon Street, which was
built in 1722, and is remarkable for an extraordinary-looking tower one
hundred and twenty feet high, faced on two sides with red stone and on
the other sides with white stone. It is exceedingly ugly, but the people
of Cork are very much attached to it, and particularly to the chime of
eight bells which hang in the tower and have been immortalized in a
simple little poem by "Father Prout," who was the Rev. Francis Mahoney,
and is buried in the churchyard in the tomb of his ancestors.
"Father Prout" was the _nom de plume_ of this witty and sentimental
clergyman, who was most prolific with his productions. He wrote odes to
almost everything in Ireland--plain, simple, homely lines, but full of
sentiment and the true poetic spirit. The common people admire them
above all other literary works except the ballads of Tom Moore, and
indeed Father Prout's verses rank with Moore's melodies in popularity.
He also published a great deal of prose, stories and satires and
anecdotes illustrating the thoughts and the habits of his fellow
countrymen, and occasionally a political satire which involved him in a
controversy with his bishop or some political leader. Father Prout in
his famous lyric described the peculiar appearance of the spire of his
church:
"Parti-colored like the people,
Red and white, stands Shandon's steeple."
"With deep affection
And recollection
I often think of
Those Shandon bells,
Whose sounds so wild would
In the days of childhood
Fling round my cradle
Their magic spells.
Their magic spells.
"On this I ponder
Where'er I wander,
And thus grow fonder,
Sweet Cork, of thee,
With thy bells of Shandon
That sound so grand on
The pleasant waters of
The River Lee."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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