Of course, there is a legend connected with the well--there always
is--and in this case St. Patrick, after banishing the reptiles from the
country, overlooked one hideous snake. It crawled into the Well of
Gougane to escape him, and it created serious depredation in the
surrounding country, coming out at night to attack the flocks of sheep
and the herds of goats and cattle, until St. Patrick came here and drove
it out by sprinkling the well with holy water. "The ould enemy" vanished
and has never since ventured to leave his loathsome slime upon the green
banks of the island. In order to prevent his return St. Patrick sent St.
Fin-Barre here to watch the well and exterminate the monster if it came
again. But it has not reappeared, and as a token of gratitude St.
Fin-Barre erected the Cathedral of Cork and founded a great monastery
beside it, leaving several devoted priests here in his hermitage to keep
watch of things.
The driver gave us an hour to see this lovely and sacred place, and then
we returned to the main road, resumed our journey, and soon entered the
Pass of Keimaneigh, which divides these savage mountains in twain and
permits people to pass from the former kingdom of the MacCarthy clan to
that of the outlawed O'Sullivans. The mountains were split by some
terrible cataclysm ages ago, but Nature has done what she could to heal
the wound. The almost perpendicular walls were clothed with wild ivy,
arbutus, hawthorn, laburnum, rhododendron, and other trees and shrubs,
which were glorious in color and light up the gloom of the gorge with
wonderful beauty. We have many grander canyons in the Rocky Mountains,
and several of the fiords on the Norwegian coast are grander and
inclosed by loftier peaks and more precipitous walls, but none of them
that I have seen are anywhere near as beautiful.
[Illustration: THE PASS OF KEIMANEIGH THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS BETWEEN CORK
AND GLENGARIFF]
Nor do I remember a panorama where the fiercer and the gentler moods
of nature are expressed in such striking contrast. The eagles and hawks
that soar in the narrow skyline, directly above our heads, and encircle
the rugged and irregular peaks that rise on either side, look down upon
an exhibition of wild flowers that was never surpassed, and the colors
seem to be more brilliant than elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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