The town of Glengariff is composed of fourteen houses, six saloons, a
post office, a vine-covered headquarters for the constabulary, which
looks altogether too picturesque and beautiful for such a practical
purpose, a Catholic church, brand new and built with money from America,
an old church where the Catholics formerly worshiped, now used as a
school for teaching lace making, a pretty little Church of Ireland
chapel, an ivy-clad rectory adjoining, and several comfortable hotels.
There are four hundred inhabitants in the parish, mostly farmers,
scattered within the glen and upon the surrounding rocks. They are
mostly Harringtons, Sullivans, Caseys, and O'Sheas, and are nearly all
related. All the population are Roman Catholics, except twelve families
who belong to the Church of Ireland and are ministered to by the Rev.
Mr. Harvey, who is paid a salary of £200 a year and is given a
picturesque old manse in the midst of one of the loveliest gardens and
groves you can imagine.
Eccles Hotel has been famous for more than a century. You will find a
flattering account of it in Mrs. Hall's book on Ireland, published in
the '50s. And, by the way, that work contains a charming description of
the country, although so much in detail that it fills three ponderous
volumes that weigh four or five pounds each. There have been many
changes since the book was written, but they concern only the people and
their customs. Its historical references, its legends, and descriptions
of scenery hold good to-day.
The hotel, not the book, is a rambling, irregular structure with many
gables and many chimneys, and is almost completely covered with a
lustrous robe of English ivy. It sits at the foot of the glen where the
rocks and the ocean meet and the prospect from the front windows is
unsurpassed. The bay is enclosed like a wall with mighty mountains.
Titanic rocks have rolled down into the water in some great cataclysm
and now lie in picturesque shapes, here and there, as a tasteful artist
would have arranged them, clad in vivid green. The outlines of the bay
are irregular. Little arms of water reach up among the rocks that
inclose it, and, when the tide goes out, it discloses deep beds of
wondrous seaweed, curious vegetable and animal forms that Nature in her
fantastic moods has designed in her studio under the waters of the sea.
In the foreground at the right is a landing place for the little steamer
that comes over from Bantry twice a day, and beyond it, rising from a
rocky eminence, are the ruins of an ancient castle with a tower intact
that was once a stronghold of the O'Sullivans, when they were kings in
these parts. Now it belongs to the estate of the late Earl of Bantry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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