Oriental Encounters: Palestine and Syria, 1894-6Pickthall, Marmaduke William
History
Oriental Encounters: Palestine and Syria, 1894-6
Pickthall, Marmaduke William
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
'Depend upon it,' said an Englishman whom I consulted on one of my
rare visits to the city, 'the land they recommend belongs to their
relations. They will sell it you for twenty times the market value,
and then adhere to you like leeches till they've sucked you dry.' He
added: 'I advise you to give up the whole idea,' but I was used to
that advice, and firm against it.
His warning against native counsellors, however, weighed with me to
this extent, that I determined to ignore the lands they recommended in
their neighbourhood. Each was at first cast down when I announced this
resolution. But presently Rashid exclaimed: 'No matter where we dwell.
I still shall serve thee'; and Suleyman, after smoking his narghileh a
long while in silence, said: 'Each summer I will visit thee and give
advice.'
All three of us then set to work upon inquiries. Innumerable were the
sheykhs who seemed to be in money difficulties and wished to sell
their land. Some owners journeyed forty miles to come and see me, and
explain the great advantage of their property. But, knowing something
of the Land Code, I inquired about the tenure. I wanted only 'mulk' or
freehold land; and 'wakf' (land held in tail or mortmain) of various
and awful kinds is much more common. At last a sheykh came who
declared his land was 'mulk,' and certain of our neighbours, men of
worth, testified of their certain knowledge that he spoke the truth.
The village where the property was situated was a long day's journey
from our own. A fortnight after my discussion with the owner Suleyman
and I set out on our way thither, having sent Rashid ahead of us to
find a decent lodging, since it was our intention to remain there
several days.
The village was arranged in steps upon a mountain side, the roofs of
houses on the lower level serving as approach to those above. On all
the steep slopes round about it there were orchards, with now and then
a flat-roofed house among the trees.
Rashid came out to meet us, accompanied by certain of the elders,
among whom I looked in vain for the owner of the land we were to
visit. My first inquiry was for him. Rashid replied: 'He is unpopular.
I went to the chief people of the village'--he waved his hand towards
the persons who escorted him--'and they have set apart a house and
stable for your Honour's use.'
The house turned out to be a single room, cube-shaped, and furnished
only with some matting. The stable, part of the same building, was
exactly like it, except that it was open at one end.
We had our supper at a tavern by the village spring, surrounded by a
friendly crowd of fellahin. Again I looked for the old gentleman whom
I had come to see, and whispered my surprise at not beholding him.
Rashid again replied: 'He is unpopular.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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