Women -- Asia -- History; Women -- Middle East -- History
Among the female officials of the seraglio is the Hasnada Ousta, or
"grand mistress of the robes." She is usually an elderly woman of
respectability and of dignity. This lady acts as vice-Valideh, caring
for matters in the establishment to which it may not be possible for the
Valideh Sultan to give her own personal attention. She holds a place of
much honor, and women holding this position have been known to become
Valideh. There is also the Kyahya Kadin, or "lady comptroller," who is
generally selected by the sultan from among the oldest and most trusted
of the Gediklis.
The dress of the ladies of the royal harem was formerly altogether
Oriental; so also were the furnishings of the women's apartments. These
last still consist largely of low divans, costly embroidery, couches,
and the like; but European customs have now made themselves felt, not
only in the furnishings of the rooms, but more particularly in the
matter of feminine attire. Costly robes from Paris and Vienna have
invaded the precincts of the harem; and these, added to the wealth of
jewelry of which Oriental ladies are so fond, make it possible for the
women of the rich Turkish households to be quite cosmopolitan in their
modes of dressing.
Many of the lower ranks wear upon their head a sort of hood of black
silk, the Egyptian _chaf-chaf_. To this is attached a piece of black
netting, which can be dropped over the face of the wearer when she so
pleases. The women of Constantinople, however, are not so careful in the
matter of the veil as are the ladies living in cities under less
cosmopolitan influence.
European ideas and habits have greatly modified Turkish customs. The
_yashmac_ is the face veil which the Turkish girl receives when she
attains to the marriageable age. The word is derived from a verb which
means, when fully interpreted, "May long life be granted you." The
material is thin, fine lawn or similar stuff. The older and less
attractive women, or ladies who do not wish to be recognized in a public
concourse, as when shopping, wear a veil of thicker material.
The cloak used is the _feridjè_. It is usually of black material, and
its shape is intended to conceal the outlines of the figure. The
_feridjè_ is now much modified, however, by European tastes, and is not
greatly different from the opera cloak worn by the ladies of Paris.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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