Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
After reading the quaint yet strong narrative of the ferocity and
strength of the Kaniags which Shellikov[56] has given us, it is
hard, indeed, to realize that bold pioneer’s feeling as we now
look in upon the steep slopes of Three Saints Bay, where, at the
head of it, within the sweep of a sand-spit, he erected the first
permanent white habitation ever planted on Kadiak with the aid of
the one hundred and fifty or sixty Russians who formed his company.
Here, to-day, we see a cluster of sod-walled barraboras and two
small, frame trading-houses, in which live one hundred and ninety
of the descendants of those hardy savages who terrified and nearly
annihilated the party of Shellikov one hundred years ago in this
very spot. Nothing else is left, for Baranov in 1796 removed the
post itself to the present site of Kadiak village. As we scan the
settlement of Three Saints we notice that the most prominent object
is the rough-hewn walls and thatched roof of an old Greek chapel,
in front of which is a rude trestle; from the upper frame of this a
bell hangs. Now a stooping figure emerges from the church door; he
seizes the clapper, or bell tongue, with both hands and swings it
vigorously. Promptly the villagers emerge from their huts; trotting
and shambling in single file, they all troop into the chapel.
Meanwhile the dusky sub-deacon still tolls and chimes away long after
every inhabitant has been gathered in. These men and women who, with
bowed heads and fervent crossings, bend and kneel as they enter
that place of worship, are the children of the “blood-thirsty and
implacable” Kaniags of whom Shellikov gave so vivid a picture to the
Empress of all the Russias just a century ago.
They are hunting sea-otters, however, just as they did then, and
living in precisely the same manner, save the variations of outward
demeanor and intercourse due to the teachings of the Greek Church.
But if you go among them and strive to have them tell you of the
heroic battle made by their ancestors on the Oogak “kekour,” you will
be rewarded by either a stupid stare of vacancy or a muttered “Bogue
ezniet” (God knows)!
The deep recess of Eagle Harbor, which lies between this point of
earliest Russian occupation and Kadiak village, affords the location
of another large native village, and its region is called the best
grazing ground in all Alaska. On the surf-beaten islets at the mouth
of the inlet a great many sea-lions are always found, and thus yield
to these hunters of Orlova a rich return in hides and sinews so
essential for the construction of the “bidarka.” A few families of
Creoles also reside here, who attend to a small herd of cattle, keep
fowls, and generally look after their commissions as middlemen in the
sea-otter revenues.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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