Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
As the little schooner bears up to the westward for our port of
Oonalashka, after we have well passed the Straits of Oonimak, we sail
into the shorter, choppy waters of Bering Sea—into its characteristic
light gray-green hue of soundings. The precipitous walls of Akoon
Island, rising like so much Titanic sandstone masonry everywhere
abruptly from the surf, carry a broad green plateau, that rolls and
extends high above the surrounding tide-level. Here, under their
lee, on the north shore, we encounter one of those large schools of
humpback whales[72] which are so common and so frequently met with
in the Aleutian straits and passages. These animals rise and sink
alongside of the vessel, in utter disregard of its presence; and even
volleys and bullets of our breech-loading rifles rapidly fired into
their broad, glistening, gray-black backs and sides do not seem to
arouse or alarm them in the least. Down they lazily go, to soon rise
again with a sonorous whistle as they “blow.” A cloud of whale-birds
hover over and settle on the watery area occupied by the feeding
whales, ever and anon rising, to alight again as the cetacean fleet
leaves its feathered convoy tossing behind on the wavelets of the sea.
Our skipper, who has been a whaler in his youth, tells us, with
a quaint air of contempt for what we so much admire, that these
fish-like monsters are of no consequence in the eyes of a wise
whaling captain, for though they are large enough, it is true, yet
they are the wrong breed of whales—they are lean, fighting humpbacks,
which, if struck with a harpoon, will run like an express engine for
fifty miles or more, carrying a boat and crew of our species, either
down in its rapid rush, or else diving in the shoals, over which it
feeds, it rolls the death-dealing iron out or breaks it off on the
bottom.
A stiff head-wind causes the course of the vessel to frequently
lie close in to the shore where the massive bluffs of Akoon and
Akootan rise in grim defiance, and from the shelves and interstices
of which flocks of sea-parrots and little auks fly out in circling
flights of curiosity and inspection around the schooner. As we watch
the lazy motions of the whales, we recall the fact that on the
summits of these bluffs and headlands now before us, the natives of
Oonimak, as well as those to the country born, were in the habit of
standing through long vigils of daily and nightly watch, as they went
whale-fishing long ago after their own primitive fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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