Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
As I have said, there are here virtually but two seasons—winter and
summer. To the former belongs November and the following months up
to the end of April, with a mean temperature of 20° to 28°; while
the transition of summer is but a very slight elevation of that
temperature, not more than 15° or 20°. Of the summer months, July,
perhaps, is the warmest, with an average temperature between 46° and
50° in ordinary seasons. When the sun breaks out through the fog,
and bathes the dripping, water-soaked hills and flats of the island
in its hot flood of light, I have known the thermometer to rise to
60° and 64° in the shade, while the natives crawled out of that
fervent and unwonted heat, anathematizing its brilliancy and potency.
Sunshine does them no good; for, like the seals, they seem under its
influence to swell up at the neck. A little of it suffices handsomely
for both Aleutes and pinnipedia, to whom the ordinary atmosphere is
much more agreeable.
It is astonishing how rapidly snow melts here. This is due, probably,
to the saline character of the air, for when the temperature is only
a single degree above freezing, and after several successive days
in April or May, at 34° and 36°, grass begins to grow, even if it
be under melting drifts, and the frost has penetrated the ground
many feet below. I have said that this humidity and fog, so strongly
and peculiarly characteristic of the Pribylov group, was due to the
warmer ocean-currents setting up from the coast of Japan, trending to
the Arctic through Bering’s Straits, and deflected to the southward
into the North Pacific, laving, as it flows, the numerous passes and
channels of the great Aleutian chain; but I do not think, nor do I
wish to be understood as saying, that my observation in this respect
warrants any conclusion as to so large a Gulf Stream flowing to the
north, such as mariners and hydrographers recognize upon the Atlantic
coast. I do not believe that there is anything of the kind equal to
it in Bering Sea. I believe, however, that there is a steady set up
to the northward from southward around the Seal Islands, which is
continued through Bering’s Straits, and drifts steadily off up to the
northeast, until it is lost beyond Point Barrow. That this pelagic
circulation exists, is clearly proven by the logs of the whalers,
who, from 1845 to 1856, literally filled the air over those waters
with the smoke of their “try-fires,” and ploughed every square rod of
that superficial marine area with their adventurous keels. While no
two, perhaps, of those old whaling captains living to-day will agree
as to the exact course of tides,[89] for Alaskan tides do not seem
to obey any law, they all affirm the existence of a steady current,
passing up from the south to the northeast, through Bering’s Straits.
The flow is not rapid, and is doubtless checked at times, for short
intervals, by other causes, which need not be discussed here. It is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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