Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
That long stretch of more than four hundred miles of bare Alaskan
coast, between Prince William’s Sound and Cape Spencer, which stands
at the northern entrance to the Sitkan waters, is one that sustains
very little human or animal life, and is so rough and is so bleak,
that from September until May it is feared and avoided by the
hardiest navigator. The flanks of Mounts Fairweather and Crillon rise
boldly from the ocean at their western feet, and this sheerness of
elevation undoubtedly gives them that effect of cloud-compelling,
which does not lose its awe-inspiring power even when a hundred miles
away. To the northward and westward of Fairweather, however, the
alpine range which it dominates abruptly sets back from the coast
some forty or fifty miles, then turns about and faces the sea in
an irregular, lofty half-moon of more than three hundred miles in
length. A low table-land, or rolling shelf, is extended at its base,
intervening between the mountains and the wash of the Pacific. It is
timbered with spruce quite thickly, and reported by the Indians to be
the best berrying ground in all Alaska.
The Fairweather shore is a steep, woody one, much indented with
roadstead coves or bays; the coast line is hilly and uneven, with
some rocks and rocky islets scattered along not far out from the
surf. The sand-beaches which extend from Fairweather toward the feet
of those under St. Elias are remarkably broad and extensive; so much
so that, from the ship’s mast-head, large lagoons within the outer
swell of the open ocean are frequently seen. These beach-locked
estuaries communicate with the ocean by shallow breaks in the
outer beach-wall of sand and gravel, across all of which the sea
rolls with great violence.
[Illustration: MT. SAINT ELIAS: 19,500 FEET
Under the shadow of this great mountain. Bering’s crew landed in
July, 1741; they were the first white men to behold its sullen
grandeur, and it fitly stands as the initial point of that early
recognition of Russian America. In clear weather it is distinctly
seen by mariners, 150 miles at sea; usually, however, it is wrapped
in clouds]
Right under the towering slopes of Fairweather, as at St Elias, is
a large area of upland entirely destitute of verdure of any kind,
except the brown and russet mosses and lichens; huge, rugged masses
of naked rocks are strewn about in every direction—an old prehistoric
lava-flood, perhaps.
The coast, from the head of Cross Sound to Fairweather, is not sandy,
but may be well described as the surf-beaten base of a frozen range
of magnificent Alpine peaks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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