Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
When your ship, bound in, passes this Alaskan “Hell Gate,” she enters
into a broad and ample expanse of water caused by the widening
effect of two large bays which are just opposed to each other on
the opposite shores. The coast of the Kenai Peninsula is low, the
mountains contiguous are not high, though toward the interior the
ridges become much loftier; but everywhere between them and this
coast-line is that characteristic marshy tundra of the Arctic—a
low, flat, broad strip, varying in width from forty to fifty miles,
through which sluggishly flow a multitude of streams and brooks,
wooded with birch, poplar, and spruce everywhere on the banks, but
bare of timber over the great bulk of its expanse. As the inlet
contracts still further, especially at the point between the two
headlands of East and West Foreland, the tide again increases in
velocity and violence of action until it attains a speed of eight
and nine knots an hour, with an average vertical rise and fall of
twenty-four to twenty-six feet. The northeastern extremity of this
large arm of the sea, which Cook entered with the confident hope of
finding a watery circuit of a continent, and, being disappointed,
applied to it the name of “Turnagain,” presents a tidal phenomena
equal to that so well recognized in the Bay of Fundy. Here the tide
comes in with a thundering roar, raising a “bore” wave that advances
like an express train in rapidity, carrying everything before it
in its resistless onward, upward sweep. High banks of clay and
gravel, which at low-tide seem as though they were far removed from
submersion, are flooded instantly, to remain so until the ebb takes
place. The natives never fail to remember the angry warning of this
incoming tide; they always hurriedly rush out of their huts, scan
quickly everything surrounding, lest some utensil, some canoe, or
basket-weir be thoughtlessly left within the remorseless rush of that
swift-coming flood.
Those glacial sheets which fill countless ravines and cañons in
the mountain ridges at the head of Cook’s Inlet, especially of
Turnagain Canal, and avalanches of snow, from their lofty cradles
thereon, all sweep down together upon the wooded flanks below, and
are thus destroying great belts of forest and piling up innumerable
heaps of rocky débris to such an extent as to often change the
superficial aspect of an entire section of country from season to
season; meanwhile the tide rushing up and down over this drift of
avalanches and glaciers, carries the débris hither and thither, so as
to constantly alter the channels, and the very outlines of the coast
itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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