Herodotus, indeed, reported that Egyptian men had two suits, women
only one. Erman naturally cannot explain the simplicity of the women’s
clothes and the eagerness of the men for color and ornament, because it
contradicted current theories of the character of the two sexes. To-day
the view is current which Runge expressed when he said that “Women’s
desire to please and love of ornament is dependent upon her sex life.”
This view, though still common, is fundamentally false. The inclination
to bright and ornamental clothing is dependent not upon sex but upon
the power-relation of the sexes. The subordinate sex, whether male or
female, seeks ornament. Strabo tells of the love of finery and cult of
the body among Lybian men. They curled their hair, even their beards,
wore gold ornaments, diligently brushed their teeth and polished their
finger-nails. “They arrange their hair so tenderly,” he writes, “that
when walking they never touch one another, in order not to disturb it.”
It is usual in states where women are dominant for the men to wear long
hair and pay particular attention to their barbering. The men of Tana,
in the Hebrides, wore their hair 18 to 20 inches long, divided into six
or seven hundred tiny locks, in the days when women ruled. Among the
Latuka the men wore their hair so elaborately that it took ten years to
arrange it. The Konds also wore very long hair, elaborately arranged.
The stronger tendency of the subordinate sex to ornamentation
apparently is closely related to the division of labor. The subordinate
sex, working at home, has more leisure and opportunity for ornament
than the dominant. Furthermore, leisure stimulates the erotic feelings.
Since the partner does not share the leisure the lonely erotic often
seeks a way out in self-ornamentation. At the same time the ornament is
intended for the partner, for the stimulated eroticism increases the
desire to please the other sex.
When the sexes are equal the clothes of the two sexes tend to be alike.
We have noted that the Cingalese were physically similar; their clothes
were exactly the same. The only difference was that the men wore a
mother-of-pearl comb in the hair, the women none. Among the Lepka the
sexes can be distinguished only by the fact that the men wear their
hair in two braids, the women in one. Tacitus reports that the old
Germans wore the same clothes and wore their hair alike.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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