Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
Marciano climbed back to his seat in the stern, gave an order and the
paddles pushed sluggishly through the pads, carrying fear and tumult
to thousands of little aquatic lives. The next four hours we shall
never forget as long as we live. On and on we went through the pitchy
darkness, guided solely by the light of the little bow lantern. The bush
ropes ahead stood out in sharp silhouette like giant serpents coiled in
mid-air across our path. The night seemed to press in on our tiny atom of
life. The shadows of the waving arms of the paddlers were thrown on the
foliage behind the boat, looking like some huge spider-like thing forever
following it. The sheets and drops of water thrown up by the Indians
gleamed like molten silver.
The open savannas increased in size and extended farther on each side
than the shaft of electric light could carry. Great tufts of pampas
grass towered high above our heads, drooping gracefully outward in all
directions. The channel narrowed and the lily blossoms increased until
the water was thickly studded with them. Their odor hung heavy on the
air and when one of the blossoms itself was smelled, the perfume was as
sweet and as overpowering as chloroform. During the day they had been all
but odorless. For miles we pushed through the tangle of water plants;
in places the men having to drag and push the boat over the reeds and
grasses, crushing scores of spider lilies with the keel. This is the
back-water divide between the rivers which flow northward into the Waini
and those which flow to the south. During the dry season this route
becomes impassable.
[Illustration: FIG. 93. MANATEE TAKING IN AIR AND ABOUT TO DIVE.]
Later we came to open pond-like spaces and here we found another species
of water lily with a smaller flower and a smooth-edged leaf with maroon
colored under side. Owls, large moths and bats occasionally flitted
across the field of light.
It was half-past ten at night when Marciano told us that we were turning
into the Morooka River. We were to follow this river down to the very
sea, but here it was barely distinguishable as a narrow channel through
the grass and reeds. Another hour passed and several dark forms loomed up
in the dim light of our lantern, and when we reached them we found that
they were boats tied to a rough sort of landing.
We climbed out and stumbled sleepily about, getting the cramped feeling
out of our bodies. Then when the Indians had tied up the boat and slung
our hammock bags over their backs, we followed them up the long avenue of
lofty cocoanut palms which stretched down to the water’s edge. We felt
our way slowly in the darkness, walking stiffly and uncertainly after the
cramped position in which we had been compelled to sit for so many hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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