Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
At daybreak we pushed through a tangled mass of lilies and water
hyacinths into a tiny caño or creek, and in a soft rain, while the tired
Indians slept beneath protecting palm leaves, we cooked erbswurst and
cocoa. The morning chorus was infinitely sweet, from flocks of invisible
songsters, a trembling descending chord of three notes, rising at the end
in a plaintive, questioning way.
At eight o’clock we went on again, the Indians apparently perfectly
rested after their two hours’ sleep. The Pomeroon narrowed to about a
hundred yards, mangroves disappeared and mucka-mucka with its oblong,
pineapple-like fruit, took their place. Flowers were abundant,—white
convolvulus; wild sorrel, pink with deep carollas; large yellow blossoms
with scarlet hearts, and many other varieties. Four-eyed fish were
still common and Great Rufous Cuckoos,[77] Lesser Kiskadees[103] and
Swallow-tailed Kites[58] were building nests.
[Illustration: FIG. 99. MILES OF LILIES.]
At Pickersgill Police Station we stopped for lunch. These posts are the
sole representatives of law and order in the wilderness, and here the
semi-military organization of negro police have their quarters. Most
of them are men of unusually large size, and in disposition they are
pleasant and obliging. They never failed to do their best to make us
comfortable. The duty of these men is varied. Besides being responsible
for the good conduct of the inhabitants of their districts, they keep
account of shipments and all passing boats and passengers, and stand
ready to run down, or rather paddle down, fugitives from justice. At each
post are little rooms reserved for travellers, and here any strangers
with proper credentials are at liberty to swing their hammocks and make
themselves at home. The sergeant had just trapped a half dozen pretty
blue and yellow Violet Euphonia Tanagers[140] in a mango tree near the
station. The usual colony of Yellow-backed Cassiques[151] was deserted
at the time of our visit, but had been occupied twice during the last
year. Lying half in the water in front of the house was an anaconda
fifteen feet long which had just been shot. We purchased thirty bananas
for fourpence, and with fried bananas and bacon, the unfailing and never
cloying erbswurst, jam, educator crackers and lime squash, we had a meal
fit for the gods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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