Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
On and on we went, the darkness settling quickly down. A new Castanet
Frog raised its voice. This was really remarkable—a syncopated Oriental
rhythm, clicking musically, and held by one frog for only a minute or two
when another instantly took up the little tune. This shifting of place,
the music sounding first here, then farther on, made it seem as if some
invisible dancer were swiftly whirling over the reeds and tules. One
could hear the clicking of the castanets and the tinkling of anklets, and
the thought was made more vivid as a bejewelled coolie woman passed us in
a long narrow dug-out, paddled swiftly by her husband.
The water was very high and a wide new channel among the grasses so
confused Marciano that we paddled for an hour before we realized that
we were lost. We changed direction and guided ourselves by the stars,
passing some dense grass through which we had to push laboriously. At
last Marciano sent a clear, penetrating call through the night and the
coolie answered, far ahead and to the left. We called twice after that
and then came into a canal, and soon were alongside two canoes blocked by
a lock. We would have as soon expected to find a motor car here in the
wilderness as a canal lock, but nevertheless there _was_ a canal lock
with no one to operate it. By our combined efforts we opened it, passed
through and found ourselves surrounded by miles of sugar-cane fields. We
had entered the back door, as it were, of the great sugar plantation of
Anna Regina, one of the few which are still in operation. We were on the
home stretch and the Indian boys towed us the remaining distance, running
at full speed, tumbling head over heels into the water; and forgetting
for once their usual Indian stolidness, they giggled and chattered as if
they were out for a lark, instead of having paddled a heavily laden canoe
on thirty-six hour stretches!
[Illustration: FIG. 100. THE ROAD TO SUDDIE.]
At midnight we reached the end of the canal, and a hundred yards up a
road we found the Anna Regina police station. The guard turned out,
cleared away the judge’s bench and witness box in the courtroom and laid
blankets for us on the benches, as there were no rafters for our hammock
ropes. Our Indians would not come near the dreaded prison house, but left
our baggage at the entrance. They said good-by as they were to start back
at once. We had grown to have a real affection for these simple men and
boys, and found them the best of travelling companions, silent, courteous
and wonderful workers. May the time come when Marciano will again pilot
us through that beautiful region to which no pen or camera can do the
slightest justice!
The following morning after a walk through the neighboring coolie village
of Henrietta, where we purchased some Yellow-bellied Callistes[142] and
other birds, we secured a carriage, with a horse and a mule as motor
power, and drove to Suddie, taking the steamer thence down the Essequibo
River to Georgetown.
CHAPTER VIII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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