Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
As we approached one of these rapids the bowman stood up and the men
braced themselves for the tremendous exertion. Starting with a slow,
steady stroke, this became quicker and quicker as the white water was
reached, then the bowman, using his long paddle lever-like against the
thwart, held the ballyhoo steady, while the men drove her through the
swirling water. The current became stronger and stronger, the canoe
seemed to slow down, be stationary, even to slide back a foot or two.
Then the great black backs, glistening with perspiration, would twist and
bend in a final effort and the boat would shoot forward into the quiet
eddy at the foot of the rapid, with the water swirling past on each side.
[Illustration: FIG. 110. A TACUBA ON THE CUYUNI.]
[Illustration: FIG. 111. RAPIDS ON THE CUYUNI.]
[Illustration: FIG. 112. RUSHING THE BOAT INTO THE RAPIDS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 113. WARPING THE BOAT THROUGH THE LOWER WHIRLPOOLS.]
Now, at a word from the steersman, the blacks tumbled overboard, hastily
getting out heavy rope cables, which one or two of the most powerful took
in their teeth or tied around their waists and carried to some projecting
rock as far ahead as possible. After they had fought their way up to the
rock they tied the rope securely and now all hands took hold, some of
the rope, others of the boat, and pushed and pulled her up through the
boiling torrent.
In one or two cases it was possible to zigzag up through the less
formidable shallows. After a particularly difficult piece of paddling
we would rest in some backwater for a few minutes and have time to look
about us. Every snag held its complement of vampires which took to wing
only when we were very close. Solitary Sandpipers[21] and Parauques[70]
were abundant, the latter apparently nesting on the numerous little
sand-bars, and swooping near the boat or swinging up to a bare branch
where they perched lengthwise and watched us with half-shut eyes.
The rocky islets were covered with the low Water Guava (_Psidium
fluviatile_), and the rocks which are usually covered with shallow
water or those within reach of the falls were studded with thousands of
little starry flowers. In other places masses of delicate pink blossoms
raised their heads above the shining mat of green submerged leaves which
fairly carpeted the pools. The beds of pink, green and white amid the
pools reminded us strongly of the many-colored sponges, hydroids and
anemones in a tidal pool of the Bay of Fundy or a reef off a Florida Key.
These aquatic flowers, far out from shore, gave forth a sweet perfume
attracting flies, bees and even butterflies, which flitted through the
mist, just clearing the foaming water.
[Illustration: FIG. 114. A REST MIDWAY UP THE RAPIDS.]
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