Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
MARCH 28th.—Leaving the house before noon I crossed the Little Aremu by a
foot bridge, at the western edge of the clearing. The stream here flows
gently and smoothly; it is from one to four feet deep, and ten to fifteen
feet wide. Following it upstream, one is stopped within a few yards by
a perfect tangle and maze of interlocked vines and trunks showing what
it was like lower down before the hand of man hewed and blasted a free
channel. The forest about the mine clearing is probably near the extreme,
even of tropical growth. One feels absolutely dwarfed as one gazes up—far
up, at the lofty branches, where birds like tiny insects are flying
about, in a world by themselves. The trunks are clean, hard and straight
as marble columns and the undergrowth is thin, giving access in almost
any direction, yet dense enough to harbor many species of birds and
animals.
Turning south along a wood road, I started on my first tramp into the
jungle. It was the hottest part of the day, but there was all the
difference in the world between sun and shade, and here in the recesses
of the forest it was pleasantly cool, and birds and insects were abundant.
One of the first sounds which came to my ears was a loud, intermittent
rustling among the dried leaves, marked now and then by a low grunt.
Crawling up quietly behind a great mossy log, I peered over and was
surprised to find that I had been stalking a huge tortoise. I certainly
might reasonably have expected to see a mammal instead of a reptile,
as our tortoises of the north are not in the habit of attracting our
attention by their vocal efforts. This was a South American Tortoise
(_Testudo tabulata_) of the largest size, not far from two feet in
length, and he was busy rooting in the ground for some small nuts which
had fallen in great quantities from the tree overhead and settled among
the débris of the leaf mould. The shell of the tortoise was high and
arched, dark brown in color with a bright yellow centre in each shield.
There were two deep abrasions on the shell, apparently caused by the
teeth of some carnivore.
These tortoises were very common and we had many delicious soups and
stews made of their meat. They were, however, heavy and awkward to carry
and we never bothered to bring them home unless on the return journey
and near the clearing. In one individual we found eight eggs about to be
deposited.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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