Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British GuianaBeebe, William
History
Our search for a wilderness : $b An account of two ornithological expeditions to Venezuela and to British Guiana
Beebe, William
Birds -- South America; Guyana -- Description and travel; Natural history -- South America; Venezuela -- Description and travel
Max showed plainly in what esteem he held naturalists. The first day
he went out with us he was neatly dressed in dark blue jeans. When
he appeared on the second morning we did not recognize him. A small
ragamuffin stood before us, stamping like a pony to drive away the flies,
which hovered about his ankles. His clothes were a mass of rags—it was
impossible to say what had been the original color or material. Max had
taken our measure and decided that people who tramped through the “bush”
as we did were not worthy of anything better than rags.
Sometimes in the jungle we would meet Indian women who, living far in the
interior, were on their way to Guanoco to buy machetes, fish-hooks and
other articles of civilization. They would always stop and make friends
with us, with child-like curiosity asking where we came from, and why we
wanted birds and lizards and butterflies, and murmuring the words dear
to every woman’s heart in all lands, “_Que jovencita!_” which literally
translated is “What a young little thing!” Very simple-hearted are these
poor Indian women and so hard are their lives that at a very early age do
they cease to be _jovencita_.
We would often meet the wandering tribes of Guarauno Indians, who live
nearly always upon the march, carrying all their worldly possessions
upon their backs and sleeping wherever night happens to find them. They
very rarely knew even a word of Spanish and shunned any intercourse with
strangers, scorning the inventions of civilization and using the poisoned
arrows of their ancestors.
One Sunday morning one of the laborers at the near-by Pitch Lake, bearing
the pious name of José de Jesus Zamoro, came into headquarters to invite
us to a dance that afternoon at his house. The house of Zamoro had
nothing particularly to recommend it as a ballroom; for the floor was
of dirt, the ceiling low and the walls windowless. But it was crowded;
the air stifling and the dancers dripping with perspiration. The music
was wild and strange, the man who shook the _maracas_—an instrument
consisting of two gourds filled with dried seeds which is shaken in time
to the music—often breaking into a weird song, making up the words as
he went along, with some joke about each dancer. As the songster’s zeal
waxed high he described himself as being so great that “where he stood
the earth trembled.”
Between dances the ladies’ last partners were supposed to take them
into the next room where drinks were for sale. This was the explanation
of Zamoro’s zeal for dances: music and dance hall were free, but a
substantial profit came from the drinks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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