Outlines of the Earth's History: A Popular Study in PhysiographyShaler, Nathaniel Southgate
History
Outlines of the Earth's History: A Popular Study in Physiography
Shaler, Nathaniel Southgate
Physical geography
The tendency of the _debris_-making influences along the coast line is
to fill in the irregularities which normally exist there; to batter
off the headlands, close up the bays and harbours, and generally to
reduce the shores to straight lines. Where the tide has access to
these inlets, it is constantly at work in dragging out the detritus
which the waves make and thrust into the recesses. These two actions
contend with each other, and determine the conditions of the coast
line, whether they afford ports for commerce or are sealed in by sand
bars, as are many coast lines which are not tide-swept, as that of
northern Africa, which faces the Mediterranean, a nearly tideless sea.
The same is the case with the fresh-water lakes; even the greater of
them are often singularly destitute of shelters which can serve the
use of ships, and this because there are no tides to keep the bays and
harbours open.
THE OCEAN CURRENTS.
The system of ocean currents, though it exhibits much complication in
detail, is in the main and primarily dependent on the action of the
constant air streams known as the trade winds. With the breath from
the lips over a basin of water we can readily make an experiment which
shows in a general way the method in which the winds operate in
producing the circulation of the sea. Blowing upon the surface of the
water in the basin, we find that even this slight impulse at once sets
the upper part in motion, the movement being of two kinds--pulsating
movements or waves are produced, and at the same time the friction of
the air on the surface causes its upper part to slide over the under.
With little floats we can shortly note that the stream which forms
passes to the farther side of the vessel, there divides, and returns
to the point of beginning, forming a double circle, or rather two
ellipses, the longer sides of which are parallel with the line of the
air current. Watching more closely, aiding the sight by the particles
which float at various distances below the surface, we note the fact
that the motion which was at first imparted to the surface gradually
extends downward until it affects the water to the depth of some
inches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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