Over Bemerton's : $b An easy-going chronicleLucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
General
Over Bemerton's : $b An easy-going chronicle
Lucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
London (England) -- Social life and customs -- 20th century -- Fiction; Middle-aged men -- Fiction
As a general rule, after our bathing was done we lunched and then
crossed to Venice, where we spent the rest of the day very lazily and
very happily. Venice indeed imposes laziness. Even Americans doing
Europe approach restfulness there. There is no hurrying a gondolier.
My stepsister, who had not sketched for years, once more produced her
paint-box and block, and we used to establish her comfortably in a
corner and leave her for an hour or so; Drusilla and Alderley paired
off, and Naomi and I. Drusilla had of course to see all the
pictures, and we let her and her father find them for us and take us
only to those which they thought very good. Venice is not rich in
good pictures; the best work of the Venetian school is elsewhere.
Venice has the sprawling Tintorettos in abundance, some of which are
magnificent and all miracles of virility; but she has few portraits
from his hand to set, for example, against the old Admiral and the
warrior in armour at Vienna, and nothing quite like the "Origin of
the Milky Way," in our own National Gallery. Titian, again, after
the "Assumption," may now be better studied away from his old home
than in it, and there are more exquisite Guardis in London. In the
Museo Civico, however, we found a great collection of Guardi's pen
and pencil sketches, light as air. Giovanni Bellini, again, save for
the little glowing allegories in the Accademia, is not represented in
Venice by anything so beautiful as his best pictures in Trafalgar
Square; but for his brother Gentile (if you want him), as for
Carpaccio, a journey to Venice is indispensable. Nor does one any
longer see a Venetian maturing into a Robusti or Vecellio. The
Venetians that throng the piazza of San Marco when the band is
playing are not like that. Shrewd they seem to be, self-contained,
masters of their narrow lives: but no more. Perhaps they account for
the appalling deterioration of modern Venetian art.
As for Naomi and me, we preferred the real life of Venice to its show
life, and we spent most of the time, after reaching the city, on
foot. For one may walk about Venice all day, and by following the
little narrow paths and bridges at random not only get lost but come
upon fascinating little squares and churches, family groups at the
doorsteps, and richly coloured fruit baskets. Being lost is,
however, no inconvenience, for the Grand Canal is never far away,
with some adjacent pier where one can board a steamer that will in
time come to the Molo again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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