American essays; Short stories, American; Western stories
A steamer of the Morgan line, comfortable and pleasant as ever a steamer
can be, carried us to Galveston--a place I had pictured to myself as
much larger and grander. But the hotel--though my room did happen to
look out on the county jail--was well kept; and some of the streets
looked like gardens, from the oleander-trees lining them on either side.
The trees were in full blossom, and they gave a very pleasant appearance
to the houses, in front of which they stood. Some few of these houses
looked like a piece of fairyland: nothing could have been built in
better taste, nothing could be kept in more perfect order. Too many of
them, however, showed the signs of decay and ruin, that speak to us with
the mute pathos of nerveless despair from almost every object in the
South. We planned a ride on the beach for the next day, which we all
enjoyed, in spite of the somewhat fresh breeze that sprung up. The bride
was anxious to gather up and carry home a lot of "relics"--a wish the
bridegroom endeavored to gratify by hunting up on the strand a dead
crab, a piece of ship-timber, and the wreck of a fisherman's net.
Discovering that the driver was a German, I held converse with him in
his native tongue, which had the pleasing effect of his bringing to
light, from under the sand, a lot of pretty shells, which the delighted
little bride carried home with her.
The following day we started for Houston. Eight o'clock had been
mentioned as the starting hour of the train for that locality, but the
landlord seemed to think we were hurrying unnecessarily when we entered
the carriage at half-past seven. There was no waiting-room at the
starting-point that I could see, and we entered the cars, which stood in
a very quiet part of the town (not that there was the least noise or
bustle in any part of it), and seemed to serve as sitting and
dining-rooms for passengers, who seemed to act generally as if they
expected to stay there for the day. But we left Galveston somewhere
toward noon, and since we were all good-natured people, and had become
pretty well accustomed to the speed of the Southern railroads, we
really, in a measure, enjoyed the trip. The people in the cars--many of
the women with calico sun-bonnets on their heads, and the men in coarse
butternut cloth--reminded me of the Texan emigrants one meets with in
New Mexico and Arizona, where they drag their "weary length" along
through the sandy plains with the same stolid patience the passengers
exhibited here, listlessly counting the heads of cattle that our train
picked up at the different stations on the road. The wide, green plains
looked pleasant enough, but I wanted to stop at the little badly-built
houses, and earnestly advise the inhabitants to plant trees on their
homesteads, as the best means of imparting to them the air of "home,"
which they were all so sadly lacking. The cattle roaming through the
country looked gaunt and comfortless--like the people and their
habitations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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