Oxford (England) -- History; University of Oxford -- History
Impositions by a dean were apparently a sixteenth-century invention.
Then we find offending fellows who had played inordinately at hazard or
cards, or earned a reputation for being notorious fighters or great
frequenters of taverns, being ordered to read in their college libraries
for a fortnight from 6 to 7 A.M. And the loss of a month's commons
occasionally rewarded the insolence of undergraduates who did not duly
cap and give way to their seniors, or who, yielding to that desire to
adorn their persons which the mediæval student shared with his
gaudy-waistcoated successors, wore "long undecent[28] hair," and cloth
of no clerical hue, slashed doublets and boots and spurs beneath their
gowns.
As to the academic career of the mediæval student; the course of his
studies and "disputations" in the schools; the steps by which the
"general sophister" became a "determining bachelor" and the bachelor, if
he wished to teach, took a master's degree, first obtaining the
Chancellor's licence to lecture, and then, on the occasion of his
"inception," when he "commenced master" and first undertook his duty of
teaching in the schools, being received into the fraternity of teaching
masters by the presiding master of his faculty--of these ceremonies and
their significance and the traces of them which survive in modern
academic life, as of the high feastings and banquetings with which, as
in the trade guilds, the new apprentices and masters entertained their
faculties, I have no space here to treat.
The inceptor besides undertaking not to lecture at Stamford, recognise
any University but Oxford and Cambridge, or maintain Lollard opinions,
was also required to swear to wear a habit suitable to his degree. As an
undergraduate he had had no academical dress, except that, as every
member of the University was supposed to be a clerk, he was expected to
wear the tonsure and clerical habit. The characteristic of this was that
the outer garment must be of a certain length and closed in front. It
was the cut and not the colour of the "cloth" which was at first
considered important. But later regulations restricted the colour to
black, and insisted that this garment must reach to the knees. In the
colleges, however, it was only parti-coloured garments that were
regarded as secular, and the "liveries" mentioned by the founders were
usually clothes of the clerical cut but of uniform colour. The fellows
of Queen's, for instance, were required to wear blood-red. The colour of
the liveries was not usually prescribed by statute, but differences of
colour and ornament still survive at Cambridge as badges of different
colleges.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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