Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London LifeKirwan, Daniel Joseph
History
Palace and Hovel; Or, Phases of London Life
Kirwan, Daniel Joseph
London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- Social life and customs
All the refreshment which a member has, whether breakfast, dinner,
supper, or wine, are furnished to him at the _market cost_ price,
all other expenses being defrayed from the annual subscriptions. For
a few pounds a year, advantages are to be had, which no incomes but
the most ample could procure. The Athenæum, which consists of twelve
hundred members, can be taken as a good example of the rest. Among
the members can be reckoned a large proportion of the most eminent
persons in England--civil, military, and ecclesiastical, peers,
spiritual and temporal, commoners, men of the learned professions,
those connected with the sciences and arts, and commerce, as well as
the distinguished who do not belong to any particular class, and who
have nothing to do but live on their means, bore their tailors, and
admire their family genealogy, and their own figures. These men are
to be met with day after day at the clubs, living with more freedom
and nonchalance than they could at their own houses. For six or eight
guineas a year every member has the command of an excellent library,
with maps, the daily London papers, English and foreign periodicals,
and every material for writing, with a flock of gorgeous flunkies, in
powder and epaulettes, to attend at the nod of a member, and a host
of youthful pages in buttons and broadcloths. The club is a sort of a
palace with the comfort of a private dwelling, and every member is a
master without having the trouble of a master. He can have whatever
meat or refreshment he desires served up at all hours, with luxury
and dispatch. There is a fixed place for everything, and it is not
customary to remain long at table. You can dine alone, or you can
invite a dozen persons to dine with you, females being excluded. From
an account kept at the Athenæum for one year, it appears that 17,323
dinners cost on an average 2s. 9-3/4d. each, and the average quantity
of wine drank by each person at these dinners was a small fraction more
than a pint for each. The bath accommodations are the finest that can
be imagined.
The kitchen of the London clubs cannot be equaled in the world, and
the chief cooks who have charge of the kitchens, have each an European
fame. Alexis Soyer, the greatest cook since Ude or Vatel, had, for
a long time, the charge of the kitchen of the Reform Club, and the
kitchen of this club, of which John Bright, and all the leaders of the
English liberals are members, is the finest in London.
A description of this kitchen will in a measure answer for that of any
other London club, and I will give it here for the information of those
who are curious in such matters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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