Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1)Trollope, Frances Milton
History
Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1)
Trollope, Frances Milton
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The _locale_ itself, independent of the moving throng which for ever
seems to dwell within it, is greatly to my taste: I love all the
detail of its embellishment, and I dearly love the bright and happy
aspect of the whole. But on this subject I know there are various
opinions: many talk with distaste of the straight lines, the clipped
trees, the formal flower-beds, the ugly roofs,--nay, some will even
abuse the venerable orange-trees themselves, because they grow in
square boxes, and do not wave their boughs in the breeze like so many
ragged willow-trees.
But I agree not with any one of these objections; and should think it
as reasonable, and in as good taste, to quarrel with Westminster Abbey
because it did not look like a Grecian temple, as to find fault with
the Gardens of the Tuileries because they are arranged like French
pleasure-grounds, and not like an English park. For my own part, I
profess that I would not, if I had the power, change even in the least
degree a single feature in this pleasant spot: enter it at what hour
or at what point I will, it ever seems to receive me with smiles and
gladness.
We seldom suffer a day to pass without refreshing our spirits by
sitting for a while amidst its shade and its flowers. From the part of
the town where we are now dwelling, the gate opposite the Place
Vendôme is our nearest entrance; and perhaps from no point does the
lively beauty of the whole scene show itself better than from beneath
the green roof of the terrace-walk, to which this gate admits us.
To the right, the dark mass of unshorn trees, now rich with the flowers
of the horse-chesnut, and growing as boldly and as loftily as the most
English-hearted gardener could desire, leads the eye through a very
delicious "continuity of shade" to the magnificent gate that opens
upon the Place Louis-Quinze. To the left is the widely-spreading
façade of the Tuileries Palace, the ungraceful elevation of the
pavilion roofs, well nigh forgotten, and quite atoned for by the
beauty of the gardens at their feet. Then, just where the shade of the
high trees ceases, and the bright blaze of sunshine begins, what
multitudes of sweet flowers are seen blushing in its beams! An
universal lilac bloom seems at this season to spread itself over the
whole space; and every breeze that passes by, comes to us laden with
perfume. My daily walk is almost always the same,--I love it so well
that I do not like to change it. Following the shady terrace by which
we enter to the point where it sinks down to the level of the
magnificent esplanade in front of the palace, we turn to the right,
and endure the splendid brightness till we reach the noble walk
leading from the gateway of the centre pavilion, through flowers,
statues, orange-trees, and chesnut-groves, as far as the eye can
reach, till it reposes at last upon the lofty arch of the Barrière de
l'Etoile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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