Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 2)Trollope, Frances Milton
History
Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 2)
Trollope, Frances Milton
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Last night we had intended to make a farewell visit to the
Feydeau,--Feydeau no longer, however,--to the Opéra Comique, I should
say. But fortunately we had not secured a box, and therefore enjoyed
the privilege of changing our minds,--a privilege ever dear, but in
such weather as this inestimable. Instead of going to the theatre, we
remained at home till it began to grow dark and cool--cooler at least
by some degrees, but still most heavily sultry. We then sallied forth
to eat ices at Tortoni's. All Paris seemed to be assembled upon the
Boulevard to breathe: it was like a very crowded night at Vauxhall,
and hundreds of chairs seemed to have sprung up from the ground to
meet the exigences of the moment, for double rows of sitters occupied
each side of the pavement.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.
BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS.
London. Published by Richard Bentley. 1835.]
Frenchwomen are so very lovely in their evening walking-dress, that I
would rather see them thus than when full-dressed at parties. A
drawing-room full of elegantly-dressed women, all looking prepared for
a bal paré, is no unusual sight for English eyes; but truth obliges me
to confess that it would be in vain at any imaginable evening
promenade in London to look for such a spectacle as the Italian
Boulevard showed us last night. It is the strangest thing in the world
that it should be so--for it is certain that neither the bonnets, nor
the pretty faces they shelter, are in any way inferior in England to
any that can be seen elsewhere; but Frenchwomen have more the habit
and the _knack_ of looking elegantly-dressed without being
full-dressed. It is impossible to enter into detail in order to
explain this--nothing less skilful than a milliner could do this; and
I think that even the most skilful of the profession would not find it
easy: I can only state the fact, that the general effect of an evening
promenade in Paris is more elegant than it is in London.
We were fortunate enough to secure the places of a large party that
were leaving a window in the upper room at Tortoni's as we entered it:
and here again is a scene as totally un-English as that of a
restaurant in the Palais Royal. Both the rooms above, as well as those
below, were quite full of gay company, each party sitting round their
own little marble table, with the large _carafe_ of ice--for so it may
well be called, for it only melts as you want it--the very sight of
which, even if you venture not to drain a draught from the slowly
yielding mass, creates a feeling of delicious coldness. Then the
incessant entrées of party-coloured pyramids, with their
accompaniment of gaufres,--the brilliant light within, the humming
crowd without,--the refreshing coolness of the delicate regale, and
the light gaiety which all the world seem to share at this pleasant
hour of perfect idleness,--all are incontestably French, and, more
incontestably still, not English.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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