But, while I am relating to you the advantages of these establishments, time flies apace: 'tis six o'clock.--If you are not disposed to drink more wine, let us have some coffee and our bill. When you want to pay, you say: "_Garçon, la carte payante!_" The waiter instantly flies to a person, appointed for that purpose, to whom he dictates your reckoning. On consulting your stomach, should you doubt what you have consumed, you have only to call in the aid of your memory, and you will be perfectly satisfied that you have not been charged with a single article too much or too little. Remark that portly man, so respectful in his demeanour. It is BEAUVILLIERS, the master of the house: this is his most busy hour, and he will now make a tour to inquire at the different tables, if his guests are all served according to their wishes. He will then, like an able general, take a central station, whence he can command a view of all his dispositions. The person, apparently next in consequence to himself, and who seems to have his mind absorbed in other objects, is the butler: his thoughts are, with the wine under his care, in the cellar. Observe the cleanly attention of the waiters, neatly habited in close-bodied vests, with white aprons before them: watch the quickness of their motions, and you will be convinced that no scouts of a camp could be more _on the alert_. An establishment, so extremely well conducted, excites admiration. Every spring of the machine duly performs its office; and the regularity of the whole might serve as a model for the administration of an extensive State. Repair then, ye modern Machiavels, to N° 1243, _Rue de la Loi_; and, while you are gratifying your palate, imbibe instruction from BEAUVILLIERS. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. * * * * * * * * * * PARIS AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS; OR A Sketch of the French Capital, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE EFFECTS OF THE REVOLUTION, WITH RESPECT TO SCIENCES, LITERATURE, ARTS, RELIGION, EDUCATION, MANNERS, AND AMUSEMENTS; COMPRISING ALSO A correct Account of the most remarkable National Establishments and Public Buildings. In a Series of Letters, WRITTEN BY AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER, DURING THE YEARS 1801-2, TO A FRIEND IN LONDON. * * * * * Ipsâ varietate tentamus efficere, ut alia aliis, quædem fortasse omnibus placeant. PLIN. Epist. * * * * * VOL. II LONDON A SKETCH OF PARIS, &c. &c. LETTER XXXVIII. _Paris, December 23, 1801._