Passed by the censor : $b The experience of an American newspaper man in FranceWilliams, Wythe
History
Passed by the censor : $b The experience of an American newspaper man in France
Williams, Wythe
World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives, American
One morning I awoke early, far from the firing line, safe in my
Paris flat. Before breakfast I read the hotel arrivals listed in the
newspaper. The names of several molders were there. I knew that all
their letters stated definitely what whales they were. I knew that the
tour directors would not be able to resist them and that my seat in the
next front-going limousine would probably be held in another name. So
in the words of the ancient British music-hall classic I decided that
"I didn't like war and all that sort of thing."
Twelve hours later I was standing on an old stone jetty that runs out
to meet the forty-foot tides on the north coast of Brittany. It was
as far away as I could get and still retain an official connection
as correspondent with the French army. The tiny hamlet at the end of
the jetty has an official name. The name does not matter. There is no
railroad, no post office, no telegraph. But the place is known because
it was there that Pierre Loti wrote his great story of the Iceland
Fisherman. There was nothing to disturb the thoughts, nothing to jar
the nerves. All was quiet and peace; of war there was not the slightest
suspicion.
The water at the end of the jetty was thirty feet deep, but so clean
that one could see through it as through air. I watched a crab waddle
along the bottom and disappear under a rock. Then I got out my army
glasses and swept the coast. For miles tremendous headlands stuck out
in the sea, rolling over treacherous rocks. Before me was the Ile de
Bréhat, the ancient home of the pirates, which thrusts an arm far out
into the Atlantic--an arm that holds a lighthouse to tell mariners
returning from Iceland that they are almost home.
Between the island and the mainland the outgoing tide swirled along at
a rate of twelve sea miles per hour. I turned the glasses to the coast
where the tiny Breton stone cottages were tucked behind rocks and hills
that shelter them from storms and the long and terrible winter. Now
they were bowers of color; clusters of roses and geraniums bloomed on
garden walls, tall hollyhocks stood sentinel before the doors.
I dropped the glasses and sighed contentedly. Here I had found peace.
Near the old stone jetty a man was swimming. Suddenly he sat bolt
upright on the water. His legs spread straight before him and his hands
flapped idly at little waves. Occasionally he tugged at a long drooping
walrus mustache, then rubbed the salt spray from his lips. He was a
long angular individual and from my position on the jetty he appeared
to be entirely unclad.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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