Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and AfootThayer, George B. (George Burton)
History
Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and Afoot
Thayer, George B. (George Burton)
Bicycle touring; United States -- Description and travel
Not wishing to miss the scenery along the line of the Denver and
Rio Grande, a railroad which traverses a section of country through
which there are very few wagon roads, and in the most interesting
portions none at all, I saw the bicycle handed into the baggage car,
and with a pasteboard box as large as a small trunk, filled with pies,
cakes, peaches, and grapes, I settled down into a seat in a cozy,
narrow-gauge car with the firm belief that another washout on the
way would not, at least, reduce me by famine. But accustomed as
I have been for months to an appetite of the most ravenous kind,
it now surprised even me, to say nothing of the blank astonishment
with which the other passengers must have noticed my almost hourly
devotion as I bowed over that monstrous pasteboard shoe-box. And so,
notwithstanding I had laid in rations sufficient for an ordinary
week's trip, when another washout did occur, and lengthened the ride
of thirty-three hours from Salt Lake to Denver to fifty hours, the
stock of eatables fell far short of the end of the journey.
But what shall I say of the scenery? Unlike the dreary hours and days
of sand and sage brush along the lines of the Union and Central Pacific
Railroads, here is nothing monotonous. At the outset, the ride for
hours is in a southerly direction, along the base of those grand old
snow-capped mountains, the Wasatch range, until the snorting little
engine turns up a cañon, and, puffing like mad, pulls the train of
twelve cars as far up the grade as it is possible even for such an
ambitious little locomotive to do. Then two more eight wheelers are
attached, and the three engines take us to the summit in a short time.
The hills along this cañon are covered with shrubbery, which has
already begun to show the approach of winter by changing its color
to the beautiful hues so common in New England in the fall. If there
are long stretches of desert on this line, we must have passed them
that night, for the next morning, soon after breakfast, an observation
car was attached to the rear of the train, and we all, or as many as
could, took seats in a car that is like an ordinary one with the top
taken off above the window sills. And then commenced the ride through
the Black Cañon. The train ran rather slowly, so that we all had a
good opportunity to view the cañon without that hurried feeling so
commonly experienced in sight-seeing from a fast rushing train. The
dark colored rocks rise in jagged and broken masses to a height of
nearly, if not quite, two thousand feet on either side of the Gunnison
River, which comes roaring and tumbling down through this narrow and
very crooked defile in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, and a most
interesting part of the whole ride was the sight of a long train of
cars crossing and recrossing the foaming river and winding its dark
way along through what seemed to be the very bowels of the earth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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