Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and AfootThayer, George B. (George Burton)
History
Pedal and Path: Across the Continent Awheel and Afoot
Thayer, George B. (George Burton)
Bicycle touring; United States -- Description and travel
The rain drove me into a house one afternoon, and while waiting there,
the brother of the lady of the house came in. She was a woman of more
than ordinary intelligence for this section, and fairly good looking,
and as she sat by the stove, nursing her baby to sleep, I noticed
she spit upon the floor behind the stove. Humming some tune as she
rocked back and forth, her voice was frequently interrupted as she
expectorated, and for rapidity of fire and accuracy of aim, she greatly
excelled her brother who sat near her. Her lips were stained and her
teeth discolored. Pretty soon her brother said, "Got any terbacker,"
and she, without the slightest concern, pulled out a plug from her
pocket and gave it to him. At two other farm-houses where I stopped
the women chewed, and upon inquiry I find it is a very common habit
with the women in this section, as a little boy said to me, "Yes,
some of 'em chew a nickel's worth a day."
One noon I was seated by a table in an old-fashioned kitchen eating
some hot short-cake, that had just been taken from the open fire-place,
when a tall, gray-haired, grizzly-bearded farmer came in, and yanking
a chair away from near where I sat, he said to his wife, as he sat
down, "Where did the damn Dutchman come from?" Smiling, I answered,
I was a Yankee. "Then you are worse still," said he, and he muttered
something else I could not hear. But after finding out I had passed
through in Illinois the same town in which their son lived the man
became mollified, and after showing them how the bicycle worked I
thought they seemed more lenient to Yankees than at first.
Hotel-keepers along here show more care for their guests, in some
particulars, than anywhere I have been. One asked, as he showed me
into my room, if I knew how to put the gas out. This inquiry, although
made with the best intentions, no doubt, rather hurt my vanity, for
by this time I thought I had traveled enough not to look fresh, at
least. Another one took me out of my room in the dark to show where
the door was that would lead to the fire-escape, which thoughtfulness
I certainly appreciated.
Once, at Cumberland, Md., and on the banks of the Chesapeake & Ohio
Canal, and the hills, the only impediment to a perfect bicycling
trip was gone, and all else remained--the fine mountain scenery, the
beautiful foliage, the cool, bracing air, a broad river, a winding
canal, and an almost perfect bicycle path for nearly two hundred
miles. This charming prospect is in wait for any wheelman who has
the good fortune to be at Cumberland in October. I glided along for
hours and hours, until I was tired of riding, and yet there was no
monotony. The scenes were always shifting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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