Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
We were now in the province of Burgundy, and, to say nothing of the
historical recollections, the vineyards were all about us that
delighted the palates of the world. One does not dine at the _Trois
Fréres_, in the Palais Royal, without contracting a tenderness for the
very name of Burgundy. I regretted that I was not there in the season
of the grape. The vines were just budding, and the _paysans_, men and
women, were scattered over the vineyards, loosening the earth about
the roots, and driving stakes to support the young shoots. At Saint
Bris I found the country so lovely, that I left the diligence at the
post-house, and walked on to mount a long succession of hills on foot.
The road sides were quite blue with the violets growing thickly among
the grass, and the air was filled with perfume. I soon got out of
sight of the heavy vehicle, and made use of my leisure to enter the
vineyards and talk to the people at their work. I found one old man,
with all his family about him; the little ones with long baskets on
their backs, bringing manure, and one or two grown-up boys and girls
raking up the earth with the unhandy hoe of the country, and setting
it firmly around the roots with their wooden shoes. It was a pretty
group, and I was very much amused with their simplicity. The old man
asked my country, and set down his hoe in astonishment when I told him
I was an American. He wondered I was not more burnt, living in such a
hot country, and asked me what language we spoke. I could scarce get
away from his civilities when I bade him "Good day." No politeness
could have been more elegant than the manner and expression of this
old peasant, and certainly nothing could have appeared sincerer or
kinder. I kept on up the hill till I reached a very high point,
passing on my way a troop of Italians, going to Paris with their
organs and shows--a set of as ragged specimens of the picturesque as I
ever saw in a picture. A lovely scene lay before me when I turned to
look back. The valley, on one side of which lies St. Bris, is as round
as a bowl, with an edge of mountain-tops absolutely even all around
the horizon. It slopes down from every side to the centre, as if it
had been measured and hollowed by art; and there is not a fence to be
seen from one side to the other, and scarcely a tree, but one green
and almost unbroken carpet of verdure, swelling up in broad green
slopes to the top, and realizing, with a slight difference, the
similitude of Madame de Genlis, of the place of satiety, eternal green
meadow and eternal blue sky. St. Bris is a little handful of stone
buildings around an old church; just such a thing as a painter would
throw into a picture--and the different-colored grain, and here and
there a ploughed patch of rich yellow earth, and the road crossing
the hollow from hill to hill like a white band; and then for the life
of the scene, the group of Italians, the cumbrous diligence, and the
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