Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
Instead of eating all at once, as we do on board the steamboats in
America, the French boats have a _restaurant_, from which you order
what you please, and at any hour. The cabin was set round with small
tables, and the passengers made little parties, and breakfasted and
dined at their own time. It is much the better method. I descended to
the cabin very hungry about twelve o'clock, and was looking about for
a place, when a French gentleman politely rose, and observing that I
was alone, (my German friend living on bread and water only,)
requested me to join his party at breakfast. Two young ladies and a
lad of fourteen sat at the table, and addressing them by their
familiar names, my polite friend requested them to give me a place;
and then told me that they were his daughters and son, and that he was
travelling to Italy for the health of the younger girl, a pale,
slender creature, apparently about eighteen. I was very well pleased
with my position, and rarely have passed an hour more agreeably.
French girls of the better classes never talk, but the father was very
communicative, and a Parisian, with the cross of the Legion of Honor,
and we found abundance of matter for conversation. They have stopped
at Lyons, where I write at present, and I shall probably join their
party to Marseilles.
The clouds broke away after mid-day, and the banks of the river
brightened wonderfully with the change. The Saone is about the size
of the Mohawk, but not half so beautiful; at least for the greater
part of its course. Indeed, you can hardly compare American with
European rivers, for the charm is of another description, quite. With
us it is nature only, here it is almost all art. Our rivers are
lovely, because the outline of the shore is graceful, and particularly
because the vegetation is luxuriant. The hills are green, the foliage
deep and lavish, the rocks grown over with vines or moss, the
mountains in the distance covered with pines and other forest-trees;
everything is wild, and nothing looks bare or sterile. The rivers of
France are crowned on every height with ruins, and in the bosom of
every valley lies a cluster of picturesque stone cottages; but the
fields are naked, and there are no trees; the mountains are barren and
brown, and everything looks as if the dwellings had been deserted by
the people, and nature had at the same time gone to decay. I can
conceive nothing more melancholy than the views upon the Saone, seen,
as I saw them, though vegetation is out everywhere, and the banks
should be beautiful if ever. As we approached Lyons the river narrowed
and grew bolder, and the last ten miles were enchanting. Naturally the
shores at this part of the Saone are exceedingly like the highlands of
the Hudson above West Point. Abrupt hills rise from the river's edge,
and the windings are sharp and constant. But imagine the highlands of
the Hudson crowned with antique chateaux, and covered to the very top
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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