Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
The Mediterranean curves gracefully into the crescented shore of this
lovely bay, and the high hills lean away from the skirts of the town
in one unbroken slope of cultivation to the top. Large, handsome
buildings face you on the long quay, as you approach; and white
chimneys, and half-concealed parts of country-houses and suburban
villas, appear through the olive and orange trees with which the
whole amphitheatre is covered. We landed amid a crowd of half-naked
idlers, and were soon at a hotel, where we ordered the best breakfast
the town would afford, and sat down once more to clean cloths and
unrepulsive food.
As we rose from the table, a note, edged with black, and sealed and
enveloped with considerable circumstance, was put into my hand by the
master of the hotel. It was an invitation from the governor to attend
a funeral service, to be performed in the cathedral that day, at ten
o'clock, for the "late Queen-mother, Maria Theresa, Archduchess of
Austria." Wondering not a little how I came by the honor, I joined the
crowd flocking from all parts of the town to see the ceremony. The
central door was guarded by a file of Sardinian soldiers; and,
presenting my invitation to the officer on duty, I was handed over to
the master of ceremonies, and shown to an excellent seat in the centre
of the church. The windows were darkened, and the candles of the altar
not yet lit; and, by the indistinct light that came in through the
door, I could distinguish nothing clearly. A little silver bell
tinkled presently from one of the side-chapels, and boys dressed in
white appeared, with long tapers, and the house was soon splendidly
illuminated. I found myself in the midst of a crowd of four or five
hundred ladies, all in deep mourning. The church was hung from the
floor to the roof in black cloth, ornamented gorgeously with silver;
and, under the large dome, which occupied half the ceiling, was raised
a pyramidal altar, with tripods supporting chalices for incense at the
four corners, a walk round the lower base for the priests, and
something in the centre, surrounded with a blaze of light,
representing figures weeping over a tomb. The organ commenced pealing,
there was a single beat on the drum, and a procession entered. It was
composed of the nobility of Nice, and the military and civil officers,
all in uniform and court dresses. The gold and silver flashing in the
light, the tall plumes of the Sardinian soldiery below, the solemn
music, and the moving of the censers from the four corners of the
altar, produced a very impressive effect. As soon as the procession
had quite entered, the fire was kindled in the four chalices; and, as
the white smoke rolled up to the roof, an anthem commenced with the
full power of the organ. The singing was admirable, and there was one
female voice in the choir, of singular power and sweetness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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